Holey Moley 5.10a
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 90 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10a [details] |
| FA: | Jack Marshall |
| Submitted By: | duh on Feb 20, 2007 |
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"Holey Moley", no babes!
Photo by Blitzo.
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Description Start just left of The Raven, below a series of huecos on the blunt arete. Climb the steep huecos past 3 bolts to a ledge, continue up to a short left facing corner and into the lower angle ramp/large hueco. Step up and left onto a small ledge and then back right to a horozontal dike with some large crystals. climb onto the dike(crux) and face climb up, slightly right at the bulge then back left to the anchor. Extending with longer draws the 4th and 6th(chicken bolts) will help with rope drag on this long route.
Protection 12 bolts, chain anchor(shared with The Raven).
Felicia on the Holy Moly
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"Holey Moley".
Photo by Blitzo.
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Holey Moley area.
Photo by Blitzo.
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Holey Moley - First 10a lead. Coming 'round the bu...
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By duh
Feb 20, 2007
| Way before there was a guide, before there was a bunch of easy routes and even before there were other climbers... there was Holey Moley, the original "Babe Attractor". |
By Locker
From: Westminster, CO
Feb 21, 2007
| I did it one summer and attracted nothing but flies...
but it is a very fun route none the less... |
By Blitzo
Mar 9, 2007
| It's fun, but it would be more fun with babes! |
By Ryan Kelly
From: work.
Sep 20, 2007
rating: 5.10a
| IMO, the best of the easy stuff at New Jack. Fun long jug haul (5.9-?) with a bit of thin slab at the end. |
By smokinJoe
Dec 30, 2011
| Really fun climb! Crux is on the last bulge before the anchors- a must do for sure! |
By Matt N
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Nov 26, 2012
| Crux goes a couple ways, then a fun bit of exposure up top on easier ground before the anchors. |
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