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The Beach
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Blood Meridian S 
Eclipse S 
For The Lova Mike S 
Hang Eleven S 
Holeo An' Glassy Ass S 
Milanoma S 
No War S 
Pipeline S 
Solar Power S 

Holeo An' Glassy Ass 

YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c

Type:  Sport, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13a/b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E7 6c [details]
FA: Todd McG, JBaker (Apr, 2003)
Page Views: 2,428
Submitted By: jbak on Mar 21, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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Chasing shade at The Beach


Starts hard, gets harder.


On the right side of The Beach is a ledge from which Solar Power starts. Holeo is just left of that and goes up to an obvious small hueco (the todd hole) at mid-height.


Bolts and chains.

Photos of Holeo An' Glassy Ass Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Todd McG does Holeo with his eyes closed so he can...
Todd McG does Holeo with his eyes closed so he can...
Rock Climbing Photo: T1 on Holeo.
T1 on Holeo.

Comments on Holeo An' Glassy Ass Add Comment
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By jbak
Dec 15, 2009

My original name for this route was "Toddhole". But Todd just couldn't see it for some reason.
By jbak
Nov 22, 2012

Miles Kunkel came very close to flashing this route. Then he realized that Todd hadn't redpointed it yet, and so he pretended to get pumped and fall right at the top. A very un-convincing acting job.
By Jimbo
Nov 23, 2012

EFR did the same thing for me on a route at the Hairpin. Except he pretended to grease off a hold. It wasn't very convincing either, but I took the gift and snagged the FA.
By 1Eric Rhicard
Nov 23, 2012

Never in my life and not that day either. But if you want to tell them I took a dive so you could snag the route, feel free as it makes me look little less self centered.
By Todd McGregor
Mar 23, 2013

This is a silly name but consider the source. The story goes that I was on my way to pick up JB for a day at the beach when a really bad song by Julio Inglesias came on the radio. It was stuck in my head the entire day. One weird thought led to another...
Miles is my hero.
By Luke Bertelsen
Jan 16, 2015
rating: 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c

I had never been on this thing until the other day. I recall staring up on several occasions and feeling a little sick imagining the razor blade holds that might be on this climb. Oddly enough there is really only one sharp hold IMO, and the moves are a blast.

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