Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Fall Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
5.11 Crack T 
Clam Shell TR 
Cold Finger S 
Colonial Rule T 
Drop Zone S,TR 
E.O. Friction S 
E.O. Lieback T 
Easy Overhang Traverse T 
Fall Wall (*the route) T,S 
Fear and Loathing T 
Guilty Fingers S,TR 
Gunga Din S 
Hole T 
Mickey Mantle S 
Neon Madman T 
Spider God T,S 
Upper Fall Wall Route T 

Hole 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,465
Submitted By: Mark J. Nelson on Aug 31, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
This is me just after the hole, July 2003. Pic wa...

Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is a wonderfully varied route, and can get you temporarily away from the crowds on the Clamshell.

Approach: Gain the Clamshell, and climb any of the routes from EO Lieback through Drop Zone.

P1: From the ledge at the top of these climbs, move right on an easy traverse; up a short, easy crack; and through a chimney. If you're small, grab this lead: it provides a wonderful opportunity to laugh at your bigger partners as they get wedged in the chimney approaching your belay.

P2: The hole is obvious. Climb up into it, then up out of it on the left. Tons of opportunity for style points here; if you get contorted such that you're bending 90 degrees at the waist, facing inwards, and your back is against the top of the cave, you lose them all. (Of course, you gain amusement points from your smaller partner, who has probably just taken the butt shot of the year, and will surely publish it at first chance.)

Descent: Rap the Fall Wall.

Protection 

Nothing tiny, nothing bigger than hands. You'll probably access this climb by doing a single sport pitch.


Comments on Hole Add Comment
Show which comments
By Chris Mueller
May 6, 2002

Great climb. Beware if you are not skinny on the chimney pitch - do as the description suggests and let the thinner people lead it (or use a swami belt and minimal rack)! Had a great time getting myself unstuck.
By Theo Barker
From: Loveland, CO
Nov 19, 2002

Did this Labor-day weekend. Had just done the 5.8 roof variant of Calypso in Eldo and thought the roof of the Hole was harder (but has better jams). Love that big knob out to the left of the lip of the roof, tho'. To descend we went up and right (north) from the top of the second pitch and around the top of the formation and down the low-angle slab on the west side of it to get to the rap anchors at the top of the fall wall. Two raps back to the Clamshell. I'm thin (6-2 165lbs) and would agree about the chimney.
By Theo Barker
From: Loveland, CO
Nov 19, 2002

One more thing. With a 60m rope you can combine Cold Fingers and P1 of the Hole (barely).
By Brian Story
Nov 14, 2006
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

I consider this an absolute Vedauwoo classic. Climbing out of the hole is strangely reminiscent of the cave exit on the book at Lumpy ridge. I recommend linking Cold fingers and the squeeze chimney and belaying at the base of the hole. Then puzzle out of the hole, which should put a big smile on your face. I'd bring gear up to a #3 camalot. In addition to the Fall Wall decent, one can also walk off right.
By Scott Coffin
From: Laramie, WY
Jun 5, 2012

My partner John and I attempted this climb last night. The climbing was great, but when we reached "the hole" part of the climb, we were incessantly harassed by two very angry crows. Upon investigation, we found that they had a nest with a chick right in the hole (we would have had to crawl over it to complete the climb). The crows threw pine cones and branches at me and screamed at my partner. Since going back to the cold fingers rap would have been sketchy, we downclimbed to the right to a tree, then rapped down to find Midsummer Wall, which had two really amazing 5.9 crack climbs.

BEWARE OF THE BIRDS!!