Hole in the Wall
5.11c YDS 6c+ French 24 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British
Avg: 2.8 from 4 votes
Type: | Trad, 100 ft (30 m) |
FA: | unknown |
Page Views: | 688 total · 4/month |
Shared By: | david goldstein on Aug 5, 2009 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Raptor Closures
Details
March 1st-July 31st: Devil's Head Rock, Sin City, & Recovery Wall are closed for raptor protection. The vast majority of the other crags are unaffected by the closure. Please visit:
fs.usda.gov/alerts/psicc/al… for additional information and maps.
fs.usda.gov/alerts/psicc/al… for additional information and maps.
Description
A pretty good trad pitch whose semi-vegetated nature indicates it doesn't get much traffic. Despite what the guidebook might say, it's actually pretty well protected. It follows a series of cracks; at the top there are several to choose from and it wasn't clear to me which belonged to the route proper.
Climb continuously challenging moves for about 25'; this is the crux and has good gear in a variety of sizes, but a couple of the placements may not be straightforward. Continue more easily up the most obvious line on lower angle ground for another 25' until the angle steepens and you encounter a tricky move. Pull past this and go up another 10' to the start of another hard section; at this point there three parallel, vertical cracks within a span of about 8' the center of which seemed to be the most obvious way but on close inspection seemed to be unduly difficult, so I took the right one. Anchors soon followed. Rap 100' to the ground -- if you are cleaning the route on rap, a 60m cord barely makes it.
Climb continuously challenging moves for about 25'; this is the crux and has good gear in a variety of sizes, but a couple of the placements may not be straightforward. Continue more easily up the most obvious line on lower angle ground for another 25' until the angle steepens and you encounter a tricky move. Pull past this and go up another 10' to the start of another hard section; at this point there three parallel, vertical cracks within a span of about 8' the center of which seemed to be the most obvious way but on close inspection seemed to be unduly difficult, so I took the right one. Anchors soon followed. Rap 100' to the ground -- if you are cleaning the route on rap, a 60m cord barely makes it.
Location
Double nuts to #3 Camalot. I placed two #2 Camalot sized pieces in the crux pods near the bottom.
Protection
On the same wall as The Apprentice, but at the other (upper/north) end, HITW starts about 10' right of the chimney formed by the end of the wall, at a discontinuous, poddy, finger crack.
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