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Hole in the Wall
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L to R R to L Alpha
Apprentice, The S 
Dragonslayer S 
Hole in the Wall T 
Mentor, The S 
Poacher, The S 
Protege S 
Transgression T 
Warden, The S 

Hole in the Wall 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: ?
Season: when it's warm
Page Views: 265
Submitted By: david goldstein on Aug 5, 2009

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Description 

A pretty good trad pitch whose semi-vegetated nature indicates it doesn't get much traffic. Despite what the guidebook might say, it's actually pretty well protected. It follows a series of cracks; at the top there are several to choose from and it wasn't clear to me which belonged to the route proper.

Climb continuously challenging moves for about 25'; this is the crux and has good gear in a variety of sizes, but a couple of the placements may not be straightforward. Continue more easily up the most obvious line on lower angle ground for another 25' until the angle steepens and you encounter a tricky move. Pull past this and go up another 10' to the start of another hard section; at this point there three parallel, vertical cracks within a span of about 8' the center of which seemed to be the most obvious way but on close inspection seemed to be unduly difficult, so I took the right one. Anchors soon followed. Rap 100' to the ground -- if you are cleaning the route on rap, a 60m cord barely makes it.

Location 

Double nuts to #3 Camalot. I placed two #2 Camalot sized pieces in the crux pods near the bottom.

Protection 

On the same wall as The Apprentice, but at the other (upper/north) end, HITW starts about 10' right of the chimney formed by the end of the wall, at a discontinuous, poddy, finger crack.


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By slim
Administrator
Aug 29, 2011
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Good route with 3 interesting sections. Bottom crux has good gear, as noted above. Middle crux was brief and not difficult. Top crux felt like maybe the hardest. I bear hugged the 2 cracks at the top which made for great climbing with cracks, huecos, underclings, etc. on good steep rock. Anchor bolts are old rusty coldshuts that are far apart and at different elevations, which makes cleaning kind of awkward.