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The Grotto
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Hole in the Wall T,TR 
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Hole in the Wall 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,139
Submitted By: Brian Quiter on Apr 18, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (16)
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Description 

Located between Three Fingered Jack and the wider 5.9 hand-to-fist crack, Hole in the Wall is finger crack down low with some wide sections up high, ending with a couple of sporty moves protected by bolts.

It is one of the more sustained cracks in the grotto, which makes it seem a tougher lead than Three-Fingered Jack despite the fact that the moves are a little easier.


Protection 

Pro up to 2 inches. Then two bolts to anchors shared with the 5.9 crack.



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By caughtinside
From: Oakland CA
Mar 18, 2007

take care, the rock quality is VERY QUESTIONABLE on this starting about half way up. There is a 1/2 inch crust on the more solid basalt that is pretty loose, I think if you fell on a cam there it could blow the rock and the placement.

By Alexander Nees
From: Grand Junction, CO
Apr 23, 2010

Caughtinside is right about the questionable rock quality... but I really only noticed the "flaky crust" factor in a single 3' section of the climb. Put in gear just below the crust, and just above, and I don't think there's any reason to be concerned. Very fun climb; love it!