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Holding Out For a Hero
5.10a YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British PG13
Avg: 2.3 from 23
votes
Routes in Anteater - West
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Holding Out For a Hero T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Scream Cheese S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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She Bop T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Smurf Smasher T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Swiss Cheese T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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track marks T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Velveeta TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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| Type: | Trad, 125 ft (38 m) |
| FA: | Jay Goodwin, 1986 |
| Page Views: | 2,325 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | Guy H. on Jun 19, 2007 |
| Admins: | GRK, Mike Engle, Eric Bluemn |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: (1) Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, & all the crags north of Twin Sisters are CLOSED. (2) No trash cans. (3) Highlining temporary ban in place for CIRO and CRSP
Details
(1) The area, crags, and routes just north of the Twin Sisters are on private land and the landowner recently posted no trespassing notices at the gated road/trail to the area. Any access of these areas and routes is trespassing. The area was closed by the landowner due to trespassing, illegal camping, fires & trash, and disregard of owner's privacy.
Please be respectful of the land owner's wishes and do not climb or hike here until further notice. This includes White Lightning, Skinner Roof, Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, Larry's Annihilation, Needle Rock, Mississippi Fred's, and Secret Tom's. Park officials and CRAG are working to regain access to this valuable climbing resource. Be patient and check back for updates.
(2) No trash cans anywhere in City of Rocks: urlzs.com/c4eZH
(3) HIGHLINING IS PROHIBITED
By the authority of the park manager, Highlining at City of Rocks National Reserve and Castle Rocks State Park is temporarily prohibited as of August 28, 2019.
The park(s) is reviewing highlining activities. Here are Google Drive links to the closure and the updated Code of Regulations for CIRO. drive.google.com/open?id=1y… and drive.google.com/open?id=1Y…
Please be respectful of the land owner's wishes and do not climb or hike here until further notice. This includes White Lightning, Skinner Roof, Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, Larry's Annihilation, Needle Rock, Mississippi Fred's, and Secret Tom's. Park officials and CRAG are working to regain access to this valuable climbing resource. Be patient and check back for updates.
(2) No trash cans anywhere in City of Rocks: urlzs.com/c4eZH
(3) HIGHLINING IS PROHIBITED
By the authority of the park manager, Highlining at City of Rocks National Reserve and Castle Rocks State Park is temporarily prohibited as of August 28, 2019.
The park(s) is reviewing highlining activities. Here are Google Drive links to the closure and the updated Code of Regulations for CIRO. drive.google.com/open?id=1y… and drive.google.com/open?id=1Y…
Description
This route deserves to see more traffic. The climbing is interesting and the runouts are exciting , but reasonable.
Start the climb from the ground, and follow a thin crack with good gear to the huecoed wall. The crux is surmounting the first bulge with good gear. Place some creative gear in one of the huecos, and run it out to a good bolt. This section should be considered "R" rated without this piece of gear. Easier climbing leads to the bolt anchor on Scream Cheese.
Start the climb from the ground, and follow a thin crack with good gear to the huecoed wall. The crux is surmounting the first bulge with good gear. Place some creative gear in one of the huecos, and run it out to a good bolt. This section should be considered "R" rated without this piece of gear. Easier climbing leads to the bolt anchor on Scream Cheese.
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