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Holderness Corner
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Flesh For Lulu S 
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Holderness Finish 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Tom Armstrong 1989
Page Views: 801
Submitted By: lee hansche on Nov 29, 2007

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Note: New route moratorium area MORE INFO >>>

Description 

When i last did this route it still required trad gear but had 2 bolt as well... A lot can happen at Rumney in a few years so let me know if more bolts have been added...

This route is a second pitch for either the Holderness corner (5.8 trad) or Holderness Buttress (5.10 sport) routes that end on top of the Holderness buttress just right of Flesh For Lulu...

From the anchors of either climb head out right and wander a little up past 2 bolts toward a horizontal crack below a small right facing corner... the climbing on the first half of the route isn't too tough, the crux is at the top so save your strength... I placed gear in the horizontal and pumped my way up the challenging finish moves to the chain anchors... There are a few options of how to do the moves up top but it is steep and a little pumpy... It Isn't specific to the grade but I remember it being about middle range 5.10

Location 

Starts at the top of the Holderness Buttress right of Flesh For Lulu (5.12a/b)

Protection 

2 bolts and trad gear to the chains... Bring a selection of cams and nuts...

Again if there have been bolts added please post and I'll update the info...


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By Ladd Raine
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
Nov 6, 2009
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

This is a great finish to either the arete or the corner. Still requires a #2 and a .75 for gear for safety. Two bolts then gear to the top. Cool moves in the little roof section.
By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Apr 12, 2010
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

This extension is a lot of fun, great combined with The Holderness Corner.
By Eli Buzzell
From: Rumney
Mar 31, 2015
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

Beware, as you traverse out the roof there is a loose block with a good amount of chalk on it. It looks like it used to be a good hold but after a recent freeze-thaw cycle it has become a little hazard. I can't imagine anyone getting on this would be inexperienced enough to pull on it though.
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