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> Three Pile Island
Hold Your Fire
5.13a YDS 7c+ French 29 Ewbanks IX+ UIAA 29 ZA E6 6c British PG13
Avg: 2 from 1
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Routes in Three Pile Island
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Collossus of Rhoids T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Hold Your Fire T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c PG13 |
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Rhoid Warrior, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Smelly Pirate Hooker T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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| Type: | Trad, 40 ft (12 m) |
| FA: | Kurt Smith, January 1988 |
| Page Views: | 1,469 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | Will S on Jan 13, 2011 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
This route is described in Vogel as possibly having broken holds, potentially being harder than rated because of that, and not having seen a repeat. Throw those concerns out the window, it was redpointed for a probable 3rd ascent on 01/12/11, and there are no obvious broken holds...none that affect the difficulty anyway.
Start in the large undercling (tough getting started if you're 5'9" or under), clip the first bolt, rail out left in the undercling, and launch into the 3 move crux. Clipping the second bolt is sketchy, it's in a poor location for the moves (bolted on lead from hooks, I'd guess) and if you blow it while pulling rope to clip you'll probably hit the ground. There is a decent hold to clip from once you've finished the last move of the crux, but it's still awkward.
Have a very alert belayer, because even coming off the crux moves is pretty close to groundfall, nothing to worry about if your belayer does their job but heads up anyway. Once the second bolt is clipped the routes eases way off.
Beware of the first big knob feature at the start of the crack, it could probably be kicked off, but is a somewhat crucial handhold, so please don't stand on it.
This is one of the easier routes of the grade in Josh, and not sustained, basically a V7-ish boulder problem with much easier climbing below and above. Fun climbing, good rock, and deserving of a couple of stars.
Start in the large undercling (tough getting started if you're 5'9" or under), clip the first bolt, rail out left in the undercling, and launch into the 3 move crux. Clipping the second bolt is sketchy, it's in a poor location for the moves (bolted on lead from hooks, I'd guess) and if you blow it while pulling rope to clip you'll probably hit the ground. There is a decent hold to clip from once you've finished the last move of the crux, but it's still awkward.
Have a very alert belayer, because even coming off the crux moves is pretty close to groundfall, nothing to worry about if your belayer does their job but heads up anyway. Once the second bolt is clipped the routes eases way off.
Beware of the first big knob feature at the start of the crack, it could probably be kicked off, but is a somewhat crucial handhold, so please don't stand on it.
This is one of the easier routes of the grade in Josh, and not sustained, basically a V7-ish boulder problem with much easier climbing below and above. Fun climbing, good rock, and deserving of a couple of stars.
Location
To the right of Collossus of Rhoids, is a steep dark brown patina face with a small roof and a vertical crack on the right side about halfway up. The route starts in the middle of the face (bolts are obvious here) goes more or less straight up to the roof, traverses right and finishes in the crack. Descend by scrambling down blocks and chimneys to climbers' right.
Protection
Two bolts, a fixed LA, a .5 camalot (for the horizontal right of the pin which will protect the next bit and act as a backup to the ancient pin), and a green alien. You may want an additional fingers/tips or smaller piece or a stopper for the upper crack. A couple #2 camalots and a #1 suffice for an anchor in a horizontal 6' back from the lip.
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