The Holcomb Valley Pinnacles are located just north of Big Bear Lake in the eastern end of the scenic Holcomb Valley, an area rich in history and diversions for the outdoor enthusiast. Popular for it's numerous sport routes, this area is a moderate mecca with 75% of the 300+ routes being 5.10 and under in difficulty.
Although the elevation of the Holcomb Valley Pinnacles (HVP) is 7500 feet it's not just a summer climbing area, with good climbing available all year-round depending upon the severity of the winter. Summers can sometimes be hot, making those shady climbs all the more attractive, while early and late season climbing can be ideal with relatively few climbers and few distractions but the sound of the wind in the pines.
The rock at the Pinnacles is a heavily-featured granite that ranges in quality from excellent to fair with the majority of it being quite good. Routes that look difficult often go at a moderate grade because of the highly-featured rock - a good example of this is the popular Coyote Crag.
These directions will get you to the southern parking area, which is recommended if you are driving a low-clearance vehicle, and/or planning on climbing at the southern/central Pinnacles.
Van Dusen Canyon Approach - This, the most popular approach, is up scenic Van Dusen Canyon (3N09) which is quite rocky and sees a fair amount of traffic on the weekends. Just past the pavement's end (about 0.5 miles up) is a gate that gets locked after the first snowfall and that re-opens in the Spring when the road is dry enough.
Take Van Dusen Canyon Road (3N09) to it's end at a junction with 3N16 and make a left (heading west). Drive 0.6 miles, passing the Holcomb Valley Campground on the right, and make a right onto 3N07. Drive north along 3N07 passing Wilbur's Grave, a Boy Scout Camp and several dips in the road (often several feet deep with water in the early spring) until you can make a right which parallels a fence on the right. Follow this road until it ends at a large parking area just below Parking Lot Rock.
Baldwin Lake Approach - Useful if coming from the desert via Highway 18 out of Lucerne Valley.
Highway 18 to Big Bear and then make a right (staying on Hwy 18) heading towards Baldwin Lake. Circle around Baldwin Lake (often dry in the summer) and then make a right onto Van Dusen Canyon Road (3N09). Take Van Dusen Canyon Road (3N09) to it's end at a junction with 3N16 and make a left (heading west). Drive 0.6 miles, passing the Holcomb Valley Campground on the right, and make a right onto 3N07. Drive north along 3N07 passing Wilbur's Grave, a Boy Scout Camp and several dips in the road (often several feet deep in the early spring) until you can make a right which parallels a fence on the right. Follow this road until it ends at a large parking area just below Parking Lot Rock.
Polique Canyon Approach - A faily direct, but bumpy approach that is open all year depending upon the road conditions. This way avoids the traffic of the more popular Van Dusen Canyon and is faster if coming from the west.
Take Polique Canyon Road (2N09) north as it climbs along it's scenic namesake canyon, crest a hill and then descend the backside to a long straightaway which passes a large Boy Scout Camp. Make a right onto 3N16, go up a small rise and make an immediate left onto 3N07. Drive north along 3N07 passing Wilbur's Grave, a Boy Scout Camp and several dips in the road (often several feet deep in the early spring) until you can make a right which parallels a fence on the right. Follow this road until it ends at a large parking area just below Parking Lot Rock.
Getting There (Northern Parking Area)
These directions will get you to the northern parking area, which is recommended if you are driving a higher-clearance vehicle, and/or planning on climbing at the central/northern Pinnacles
Van Dusen Canyon Approach - This, the most popular approach, is up scenic Van Dusen Canyon (3N09) which is quite rocky and sees a fair amount of traffic on the weekends. Just past the pavement's end (about 0.5 miles up) is a gate that gets locked after the first snowfall and that re-opens in the Spring when the road is dry enough.
Take Van Dusen Canyon Road (3N09) to it's end at a junction with 3N16 and make a right (heading east). Drive 1.4 miles and make a left onto 3N32. Follow this as it winds it's way north and then eventually west until you come to a fork in the road with a cairn. Make a left here, right takes you onto the John Bull Trail, and continue as it heads west and then back south. The last bit of the road passes between some boulders which larger trucks/SUV's may not fit through, so drive at your own risk (parking is available along the road before the boulders if needed). Continue a short distance to a large parking area near Wilbur's Tombstone.
Baldwin Lake Approach - Useful if coming from the desert via Highway 18 out of Lucerne Valley.
Highway 18 to Big Bear and then make a right (staying on Hwy 18) heading towards Baldwin Lake. Circle around Baldwin Lake (often dry in the summer) and then make a right onto Van Dusen Canyon Road (3N09). Take Van Dusen Canyon Road (3N09) to it's end at a junction with 3N16 and make a right (heading east). Drive 1.4 miles and make a left onto 3N32. Follow this as it winds it's way north and then eventually west until you come to a fork in the road with a cairn. Make a left here, right takes you onto the John Bull Trail, and continue as it heads west and then back south. The last bit of the road passes between some boulders which larger trucks/SUV's may not fit through, so drive at your own risk (parking is available along the road before the boulders if needed). Continue a short distance to a large parking area near Wilbur's Tombstone.
Polique Canyon Approach - A faily direct, but bumpy approach that is open all year depending upon the road conditions. This way avoids the traffic of the more popular Van Dusen Canyon and is faster if coming from the west.
Take Polique Canyon Road (2N09) north as it climbs along it's scenic namesake canyon, crest a hill and then descend the backside to a long straightaway which passes a large Boy Scout Camp. Make a right onto 3N16, go up a small rise and continue east (passing the Holcomb Valley Campground on your left) for 1.8 miles until possible to make a left onto 3N32. Follow this as it winds it's way north and then eventually west until you come to a fork in the road with a cairn. Make a left here, right takes you onto the John Bull Trail, and continue as it heads west and then back south. The last bit of the road passes between some boulders which larger trucks/SUV's may not fit through, so drive at your own risk (parking is available along the road before the boulders if needed). Continue a short distance to a large parking area near Wilbur's Tombstone.
Camping
Camping is free and legal almost anywhere in the forest surrounding the Pinnacles, but there are a number of already established campsites near the northern and southern parking areas, as well as scattered sites to the west of Parking Lot Rocks. Fire restrictions are commonly in effect during the summer months, meaning no open fires, but stoves are usually not a problem.
As an alternative there are numerous pay campgrounds in the Big Bear area, with the Holcomb Valley Campground ($14 a night), being the closest to the climbing area.
Climbing Gear
If sport climbing nothing more than a dozen draws are needed and if climbing some of the traditional routes a standard rack to 3" should suffice for the majority of the routes.
Guidebooks
Hidden Treasures East is the only comprehensive guidebook for this area and includes the majority of new routes in the area.
The Southern California Sport Climbing Guide has a limited amount of information on the area making it more of a "select" guide, but be warned that it's full of errors (and not just the Holcomb Valley section).
The Classics
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Holcomb Valley Pinnacles:
A fun route which takes the line up the center of the face using an undercling then thin edges and lieback flakes, the crux is moving right and onto the rest ledge one bolt from the top. The opening moves up to the high first bolt are worrying, there's a good small Friend placement in a slot though before the undercling flake. The crux section also feels a tad runout....[more]Browse More Classics in CA
Is it possible to get to the pinnicles right now with a high clearance two wheel vehicle? Mid 50s tomorrow, thinking of giving it a shot....
By aaron hope From: Walnut Creek, CA Mar 19, 2013 CONDITION REPORT
Any updates on the conditions? Is the snow mostly gone?
Thanks!
By Chris Owen Administrator From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake Sep 4, 2006
One of my favorite areas locally in SoCal. I have many happy memories of this place. My only complaint is that some bolts have been placed where natural protection could have been afforded easily.
With a high concentration of well protected, mostly moderate climbs, this fun area is very unique for many a SoCal climber. Highly recommended for the intermediate climber; with good holds, and great protection, no matter what the grade (e.g., 5.6 through 5.11).
By Jordan Ramey From: Calgary, Alberta Aug 6, 2007
Van Dusen Canyon Approach speedometer marks: After turning onto Van Dusen Canyon Rd it's 3.5 miles from pavement's end to 3N16. Head right. We didn't see a sign for 3N16, but it cuts out into an open meadow after a hundred yards or so. 1.5 miles to 3N32 (labeled) and turn left. 1.5 miles to the Northern Parking area (turn left at small rock pile).
Can be done in a regular car up to the narrow boulder passage if driven very carefully. Our subaru had no problem. Depending on your speed it's about 20-35 minutes driving on dirt roads, with only 1.5 miles of somewhat slow driving.
I had a blast here this past weekend. It was my first trip to the area. With loads of moderates, my fiancee was kept happy as well. While we were roped up the whole time, one thing I noticed in particular, was the nearly unlimited and untapped potential for bouldering here. I saw 1000's of boulders, less than 1% of them with developed problems. If someone were motivated to explore and do some minimal cleaning of the boulders this could be a HUGE bouldering area, with lots of quality rock.
By bcsing From: Lake Arrowhead, California Sep 22, 2008
New book to this area and all of the Big Bear Basin called Hidden Treasures East, Rock Climbing in the Big Bear Basin, by Brad Singer available at the Discovery Center in Big Bear or at Nomad Ventures.
Climbing is possible every month of the year as long as you wait a few days after a storm and have 4wd to get back there.
The best way in is via Polique Canyon Road, but in a high snow year (this year might qualify) you might not make it due to accumulated snow on some of the north-facing slopes midway on the drive up the canyon.
By SteezeMeggie From: Big Bear City, CA Apr 13, 2010
I hiked from Van Deusen Canyon in Big Bear City to the Holcomb Valley Pinnacles on 04/10/10. It was a sunny, yet windy day. The Pinnacles are located in a sunny and secluded area. There were two other people there, serious climber/campers. I climbed Coyote Crag only, the rock was strong and had great holds. It is a great place to go for beginner climbers. The winds were around 40mph, but that was a special occasion since we had storms blowing in. I would suggest the Holcomb Valley Pinnacles for all levels of climbers, there is something for everyone and enough room for it all. You're in the middle of no where, it's great!
I hiked out from Van Deusen Canyon in Big Bear City, went left on Holcomb Valley Rd. (3N16) took 3N07 past Wilbur's grave, looped right from 3N43, took me around four hours to get there. Climbed. Headed home and took the trail across to the cabin to 3N16 to Van Deusen, hike home was around two hours.
By Chris Owen Administrator From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake Jul 19, 2010
3N16 has been resurfaced with a new gravel bed - very smooth now. The road along the fence to the south parking lot is the same but many north roadside camping areas have been blocked off with boulders - no complaints from me.
By Chris Owen Administrator From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake Sep 7, 2010
Polique Canyon road has also been resurfaced with new gravel - and IMHO is now the road of preference over Van Deusen.
one of the best sport areas in socal. a must for climbers 5.10-12 range. motherload wall, doc holiday wall, and claimjumperwall best. those walls have 2 days worth on them. many others too. lost orbit good too
The North Parking lot is riddled with camp fires. NO CAMP FIRES. it is a national forest with signs posted everywhere! stoves are okay, charcoal and firewood collecting are ILLEGAL. Lets keep the access we have to this beautiful crag by respecting the rules placed by knowledgeable rangers. Gusting winds and dry pine needle beds do not mix well!
By Chris Owen Administrator From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake Jul 4, 2011
I'll second that. 4x4ers and climbers alike. Any climbers camping there should educate.
Wondering how close you can park up to the Central Pinnacles area. Going camping soon, first time at the Pinnacles. Let me know if anyone has info on where the closest parking area is.
By Chris Owen Administrator From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake Sep 1, 2011
Derrick you can get pretty darn close if you have a high clearance 4x4, by taking the northern approach you can park at Wilbur's Tombstone and camp thereabouts. Otherwise, if you take the southern approach you'll be camping about 20 minutes from the central area.
Thanks for the help! Would a 4x2 suv make it through the northern approach to the Central Pinnacles?
By Chris Owen Administrator From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake Sep 2, 2011
As long as you have good clearance you should be okay if you drive carefully.
By Joseph Stover From: Santa Barbara, CA Jul 9, 2012
Not sure how the 4x4 road is, but it looked possible to drive in a ways and camp closer to the central area - there was a small camper parked about halfway between parking lot and central area. Getting to Parking Lot Rock is fine for any vehicle probably. Polique Canyon Road approach was easy and smooth. It was hot, but compfy in the shade and cold at night. Neat area.
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