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Hoher Stein (High Rock)
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Hoher Stein (High Rock) 


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Administrators: MPuser10840, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: MPuser10840 on Jun 22, 2011

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  Print a Mini-Guide with routes

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Description 

A pretty out-of-the-way crag that's also not very easy to find assures that you'll almost certainly be alone when you come out here. It's pretty good for climbing in the summer because the rock faces north and west. The routes are relatively short at 15m and there are no outstanding routes that would lure the crowds. However, the climbing is enjoyable, as is the isolation. If you're looking for a relaxed, quiet atmosphere with a wide variety of difficulty to try, then this is a good crag to come to. There are 24 routes ranging from UIAA 4 to 8+/9- (5.4 to 5.12b). However, while I haven't done all of the routes here (obviously), I would question the accuracy of the 8+/9- rating. Come and find out for yourself and offer up your own correction for what the guidebook says.


Getting There 

The 15 minute walk might be correct if you already know how to get here, but allow yourself at least 30 minutes the first time you come.
From Nürnberg/Erlangen head north on A73 and exit into Forchheim. Follow the signs towards Ebermannstadt and continue driving through Ebermannstadt. After a little while after leaving this town, you'll see a sign on your left showing you the road you need to take to get to Heiligenstadt. Once you've reached Heiligenstadt continue down the main road and just as you're leaving you'll see a road on your right directing you towards Plankenfels. When you get to Neumühle, turn towards Reckendorf. When you enter Reckendorf, take the road on your right and follow it for 200m and park next to the Glass container. Hike 50m up the hill on the dirt road and follow the hiking trail marked with a red dot. After 120m, the trail heads to the right through the forest. After another 150m there's a sharp right turn and head uphill for 100m to get to the crag.



Featured Route For Hoher Stein (High Rock)

"?" 5.7  International : Europe : ... : Hoher Stein (High Rock)
My theory is that H. Bartoszek told the author of the guidebook that he put some routes up out here a while back (aparently he didn't know when because there's no date given) and he couldn't really remember how hard it was so he guessed and nobody went back and verified it. This route is rated 5.11a/b in the book, but it's closer to 5.7. Easy climbing leads up to the bulge, and jugs lead through that section. Maybe I found different beta than the FA... Come and try it and let me know what you th...[more]   Browse More Classics in International