All Locations >
International
> Europe
> United Kingdom
> England
> S West
> Avon Gorge
> Unknown Buttress
Hocus Pocus
5.10+ YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 20 ZA E3 5b British
Avg: 3 from 1 vote
Type: | Trad, 150 ft (45 m), 2 pitches |
FA: | unknown |
Page Views: | 481 total · 4/month |
Shared By: | Nick Russell on May 20, 2014 |
Admins: | Chris Owen, Euan Cameron |
Your To-Do List:
Add To-Do ·
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Currently closed due to rockfall
Details
In early 2013 a rockfall occurred at the far left-hand end of the Unknown Wall. Although the routes in the Unknown Buttress area are not directly affected, the landowner is concerned about liability should more rock come off. Climbing is thus banned until further notice. The best place for up-to-date information is probably the Climb Bristol facebook.com/Climbbristol facebook page
Description
The wall between New Horizons and M1 is taken direct by this classic route. The first pitch is technically demanding, but protected by good in-situ gear. Pitch 2 lacks a well-defined line, being more a 'line of least resistance'. While technically easier, the rock is harder to read and route-finding could be problematic for some.
Start beneath the thin, right-trending crack between the arete and the left-facing corner. Gain the crack (small wires) and follow it to a ledge at about 8m. Step right towards the corner of M1, arrange protection and then move directly up, just to the right of the bolt. Now trend leftwards, passing the bolt, to a piton below a thin roof. Make difficult moves leftwards to a very small left-facing corner through the roof then follow this and the crack above to a good ledge. Belay in a crack on the left.
Pitch 2 starts quite steeply up the crack and pocketed wall, to a good thread (take a thin sling). From here move up slightly on the right, past 4 pitons to the top of the ramp. The route is quite indistinct up here, and the rock tricky to read. However, the climbing is excellent and the fixed pins should provide enough route-finding clues.
Belay on a short metal post set a little back on the ramp.
Start beneath the thin, right-trending crack between the arete and the left-facing corner. Gain the crack (small wires) and follow it to a ledge at about 8m. Step right towards the corner of M1, arrange protection and then move directly up, just to the right of the bolt. Now trend leftwards, passing the bolt, to a piton below a thin roof. Make difficult moves leftwards to a very small left-facing corner through the roof then follow this and the crack above to a good ledge. Belay in a crack on the left.
Pitch 2 starts quite steeply up the crack and pocketed wall, to a good thread (take a thin sling). From here move up slightly on the right, past 4 pitons to the top of the ramp. The route is quite indistinct up here, and the rock tricky to read. However, the climbing is excellent and the fixed pins should provide enough route-finding clues.
Belay on a short metal post set a little back on the ramp.
Photos
- No Photos -
0 Comments