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Desperado Wall
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Hocus Focus 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a

   
Type: Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Tim Snyder, Nathan Brown -- FFA Brian Williams
Page Views: 689
Submitted By: nbrown on Aug 19, 2008
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Bruce and Andrew starting the second pitch. Photo...

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  • Description 

    P-1 (5.10+/A0 or 5.12a) Climb past a pin and bolt via large patina type holds to a diagonal line of bolts. There is an A-0 move at the 5th bolt that now goes free and involves some thin terrain and use of a small crystal. Continue up to a short crack that leads to a thin face, passing 2 more bolts to the anchor.
    P-2 (5.11) Climb straight up to a good slot, which is perfect for a pink tricam. Continue up past 2 more bolts (crux) to easier terrain. Move right a bit, and follow the line of least resistance (generally straight up) past many of the same size horizontals (small alliens or TCU's) to the last bolt. Continue to 2 bolt rap anchor.


    Location 

    This is the right hand line of bolts just right of Slabbra Cadabbra, and at the top of the gully.


    Protection 

    P-1 light rack
    P-2 pink tricam, 2-3 sets of small/medium aliens or TCU's



    Comments on Hocus Focus Add Comment
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    By BruceBurgessNC
    Apr 5, 2009

    Tim Snyder freed the A0 move today and completed the FFA of the first pitch. 5.12b most likely. Well done Tim!

    For the first piece above the belay on the 2nd pitch, place a bomber #3 Metolius TCU and leave the pink tricam at home.

    By nbrown
    From: western NC
    May 22, 2009

    Actually Brian Williams beat Tim to the FFA by a week or so.