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Hobbling Hobbit 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 5c [details]
FA: Nathan Brown, Wes Calkins
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 198
Submitted By: nbrown on Jul 3, 2013
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Wes above the crux.
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  • Description 

    This is a cool but thuggish new line that took a good bit of cleaning but actually turned out quite well in the end. If the first gear placement freaks you out, just know the it's already been tested...

    P-1
    Climb up and place a funky/creative inverted C3/TCU, and a pink tricam in a weird vertical V shaped seam just above. Insecure moves get you to a line of 3 bolts that lead up and around the left side of a roof. Above the bolts the climbing gets technically easier but the pumpy crack stays on you right to the very end. You can get some creative rests in the crack.

    Rap from bolts above a moss pad.


    Location 

    The middle of a trio of routes. See picture topo.


    Protection 

    medium rack to #2 camelot. Pink tricam protects an insecure move to the first bolt.



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