Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
The Zoo
Select Route:
Another World 
Barnacle Bill 
Bilbo's Revenge 
Boredum 
Circumspect Ceiling 
Crystal Method 
Edges 
Four Hole 
Gone in 60 Seconds 
Good Rips 
Hobbit Direct 
Hobbit Hole 
Jaws (Texas Chainsaw Massacre) 
John's Stand Up 
Let's Call It "levitation" 
Lobster Pot, The 
Lobster Tail, The 
Manhole 
Marathon, The 
Mistaken Identity 
Power and Grace 
Professor, The 
Shillings 
Shire, The 
Sidewinder 
Two Bits 
Wanderer, The 
When I'm On My Own 
Zoo Traverse 

Hobbit Direct 

Hueco: V4 Font: 6B

   
Type:  Boulder
Consensus:  Hueco: V4 Font: 6B [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 812
Submitted By: Ladd Raine on Apr 13, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (34)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]

Description 

Levitate off bad holds and pop to big crimp on arete, continue up easier ground on arete and downclimb route.
Hard sit start. The start feels like trying to squeeze a hippo between your legs.


Location 

Arete left of Hobbit Hole.


Protection 

Pad, no spotter req.



Photos of Hobbit Direct Slideshow Add Photo
Alex sticking the crux. Photo Mike Mango
Alex sticking the crux. Photo Mike Mango
Comments on Hobbit Direct Add Comment
Show which comments
By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Jul 26, 2009
rating: V4 6B

This thing has the most awkward sit start ever...

By Mike Thompson
From: Manchester NH
Jul 26, 2009
rating: V4 6B

haha definitely agreed matt

By andyscott
From: Massachusetts
Dec 20, 2009

so awkward....

By BDalhaus
Administrator
From: Manchester, NH
Aug 20, 2010

funny, i don't find it awkward at all - between the bomber heel hook and the choice of 4 handholds to start, i think it's a good warmup. there's also an interesting variation that matches the crimp after the first move and follows the small seam up and left.

By Eric Heiden
From: Derry, NH
Dec 19, 2011
rating: V4 6B

Just my 2, but while the first move to the left crimp is hard, the crux for me was getting my right hand up to the little crimp above it without having my left foot slip down onto the ground.

Hobbit Direct starts at 46 second mark:

By B-Mkll
From: Bozeman, MT
Dec 1, 2013

Any world in which that left heel hook can be described as bomber is a world I don't want to climb in.