I often looked at this route from the trestle and thought it looked dark and scary...Still I underestimated this one a bit when I looked at it from the ground and read about it... I feel like it's difficulty is typically understated... I must admit that I've only done it once and ice can be subject to major change due to conditions so who knows, but bring all you've got just in case...
Start up the gully on low angle but sometimes tricky ice and some rock scratching... The gully I found to be more awkward and tenuous than I would have planed on, but not too bad considering what you are heading for... There is an optional belay on the left at a small ledge toward the top of the low angle section or if you have a 60m rope just keep heading up to the pillar... When I was on it it was in pretty good shape but the bottom was slightly inverted climbing as i hooked my way up the pillar halfway up it went vertical with some rock foot holds helpful on the sides of the chimney... The top of the pillar was strenuous to protect so i tossed in a 13cm screw and fired in to the top out which was scary at best but fun as well... Basically you top out in to a grove of frozen sand thats not too helpful and you can eventually hook some roots and catch your breath... An exciting experience for sure... Take the time to place good gear in case you need it...
Just to the right of Pegasus look for the spooky narrow gully capped by an intimidating pillar exit...
A good selection of screws... some long slings for rope drag and slinging parts of the pillar if you are lucky or crafty...
From: Newmarket, NH
Oct 23, 2009
Good description, I too found this climb harder than I expected it. I remeber the top being a little over hung.
Feb 24, 2013
Great Route. I agree with @nhclimber, in it's average condition, I think it is a little more difficult than 4+. The top is often overhung and relatively thin. Maybe they factored in all the great stemming on the chimney walls for placing gear. Either way, great climb - go do it.