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Routes in West Face
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Hobbit Book T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Middle Earth T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Mordor T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Serrated Edge T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Valinor T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, 4 pitches |
| FA: | Charlie Raymond and Gordon Webster, 1965 |
| Page Views: | 44,915 total · 203/month |
| Shared By: | Joe K on Sep 18, 2006 |
| Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Latest updates on closures, permits, and regulations.
Details
Please visit climbingyosemite.com/ and nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the latest information on visiting Yosemite, including permits, regulations, and closure information.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Description
Excellent rock, and varied climbing make this a nice casual outing. Start off the right end of the ledge described under the rock section, in a left facing dihedral. This dihedral is obvious when looking at the crag from the road as the crescent shaped crack splitting the dome, sort of right-center with a smooth-ish face to it's left.
Pitch one (5.6) climbs the easy dihedral for about 70 feet, and then traverses straight right around the corner to a belay.
Pitch two (5.7) climbs a short steep crack, sort of up & left from the belay, and heads back to the main corner for a semi long pitch with good crack.
Pitch 3 (5.7) is a classic. It goes up the corner a few more feet, then traverses out onto the face towards a bolt. Clip the bolt, then go up huge vertical jugs on a golden face for about 100 feet. You basically have to run out this section. It is steep, but the jugs and knobs are gigantic. I tried slinging a chickenhead about halfway through the runout, but, it wasn't happening. No worries though, it is all positive. The pitch meets back up with the corner for a belay.
Pitch 4 (5.7) goes the rest of the way up the corner, and jogs out to the face for a couple moves. Top out on a really nice summit.
Walk off to the climbers left down an easy gully. Don't go too far left, you are looking for a narrow gully system. Reverse the walk off for Drug Dome once at the bottom of Mariuolumne Dome.
Pitch one (5.6) climbs the easy dihedral for about 70 feet, and then traverses straight right around the corner to a belay.
Pitch two (5.7) climbs a short steep crack, sort of up & left from the belay, and heads back to the main corner for a semi long pitch with good crack.
Pitch 3 (5.7) is a classic. It goes up the corner a few more feet, then traverses out onto the face towards a bolt. Clip the bolt, then go up huge vertical jugs on a golden face for about 100 feet. You basically have to run out this section. It is steep, but the jugs and knobs are gigantic. I tried slinging a chickenhead about halfway through the runout, but, it wasn't happening. No worries though, it is all positive. The pitch meets back up with the corner for a belay.
Pitch 4 (5.7) goes the rest of the way up the corner, and jogs out to the face for a couple moves. Top out on a really nice summit.
Walk off to the climbers left down an easy gully. Don't go too far left, you are looking for a narrow gully system. Reverse the walk off for Drug Dome once at the bottom of Mariuolumne Dome.
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