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Electric Kite Wall
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Hoagie in Heaven 

Hoagie in Heaven 

Hueco: V8-9 Font: 7B+

   
Type:  Boulder, 15'
Consensus:  Hueco: V8-9 Font: 7B+ [details]
FA: Jeff Russell
Season: Fall through Spring
Page Views: 885
Submitted By: tcamillieri on Dec 19, 2009

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Description 

The crux is doing an unfurling campus move from a crossed position on the jug to hit a decent sloper with the left hand. Begin on two small pockets and do a jump/swing move to a good pod, cross match, and do the crux.

This is in the top five in the Wood. Matt Lloyd on Climbing
.

Location 

It is at the Electric Kite Wall. From the very first parking lot on the left (by the old house), go back to the road and hike about 50 yards past where the pavement ends and the dirt road begins. Go virtually straight uphill, there is not really a path, so be careful bushwhacking. If you hit the cliff band on the left side, you will see a cave with several chossy problems (that end on the ledge). You need to go about 200 yards (up canyon, i.e. north towards rt 86) to find the line.

Protection 

A few pads. The perfect rock (seriously the best in C-Wood) turns chossy at about 15 feet so either steer left and take on the choss or escape right on a slab. Both get the same grade.


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By j.jaeger
Jan 11, 2010

Thanks for posting this, Tom.

FA - Jeff Russell. Named in memory of the late Ryan Sayers, who had himself been close to the FA of this rig before being tragically struck by lightning while en-route in the Wind River Range.

Start at the farthest left pockets on the main wall... right hand crimping in a pod and left hand on a lower mono/two finger.

The FA was done by climbing the tall, death choss face above the post-crux pod/ledge, up to a high ledge. The climb was completed by doing a terrifyingly loose and dirty shimmy across the ledge to the left. To actually top out the entire wall is very much not advisable due to very poor rock quality and lichen covered sloping holds.

A much safer and more popular, alternative exit involves doing a lower tier exit via a few lip traverse moves at the ledge/pod, continuing right until the climber can mantle and walk off the back of the block.

Finally: a right more start to Hoagie in Heaven has been done for giggles.... Start with the two finger pocket in your left hand and a very poor mono in your right, power straight up to a good pod and finish. A harder first move than the original line but less moves and therefore the same grade.
By tcamillieri
From: Denver
Jan 12, 2010

Thanks, JJ. I hadn't realized it had started further left. In the Lloyd video, it seems that he starts in the two pockets? I think this is the version I did (and I got two fingers in the left hand "mono").
By j.jaeger
Jan 17, 2010

Word. So it is not clear due to the angle, but it appears that Matt started on my start rather than the original start, which again, doesn't really matter. With the cuts in the video, we can't tell if Matt actually did the full top out, or if they cut out the ledge traverse that I described. Without video of pulling the upper bulge of dirty chossy death, I suspect they cut out the upper ledge traverse for aesthetics.

Nelson did a great job, though.