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BETA PHOTO: Pitch 1 and 2.
P1 - start left of "Lazy Sunday
" one blocky slabs or left side of left-facing dihedral (preferred), underneath obvious roof + handcrack above. Meander to find gear up to a small belay ledge approximately 35' below roof + crack. 5.9(R), 90'.
P2 - climb a nice crack system through some grass hummocks up and into the overhang. Climb through nice finger crack right of overhang or stem on the left side, eventually gaining the right-facing handcrack above in either scenario. #4 cam works nicely just below roof, FYI. Jam through the NICE handcrack (50') and onto some easier terrain, eventually sharing a belay with "Lazy Sunday
" underneath second roof. 5.10, 130'.
P3 - climb left (as opposed to right, as for "Lazy
") through detached pillar and then around the corner, reaching the finger crack / corner system mentioned in "MOAC
" description. Jam/stem up through steep/thin corner eventually reaching a thin seam and slab (crux). Work right through some sidepulls and eventually easier terrain above gains the huge, grassy ledge shared by all routes. 5.10+, 150'.
Merge with "Anniversary
" and/or "Nothin'
" flake and handcrack pitches from here to round out a fantastic link-up!
Note: it may be preferrable to extend the 2nd pitch around the pillar to lessen the meandering nature of 3rd pitch, although rope drag was not an issue for our us utilizing the shared belay ledge.
Photos coming soon! (and perhaps a name change, w*nk).
Standard rack to #4, doubles on small cams up to #2 were very helpful.
BETA PHOTO: Corner system around detached pillar, P3.
BETA PHOTO: Pitch 2 and 3.
Grassy ledge: link up other routes from here.