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Hive Mind 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 150'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]
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Page Views: 500
Submitted By: Aaron Hobson on Jan 6, 2008
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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Natalie at the crux during an OMTRS training day

Description 

this route shares the start with Toucan Bob but stays in the large corner. The rock in the corner is a pale flaky granite with funny undulations. the bolts lead you deep into the corner before you make an awkward exit onto the slab (crux). From the mid-point anchors, the climbing is easier slab climbing (5.7).

Bees sometimes take residence in the crack near the crux. Getting stung ups the grade to 5.11...


Location 

Located on the right side of a large slab next to Toucan Bob. It takes the prominent left-facing corner.


Protection 

7 bolts lead to a belay stance with a 3-bolt anchor. Two of the bolts have quick-links on them allowing for a rappel. 4 more bolts lead to the top anchors. Top anchor is 3-bolts and chains. All the bolts on the route are 3/8" and appear in good shape.



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By Forrest Wilcox
From: Las Cruces, NM
Apr 11, 2012
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b

i loved this climb

By Forrest Wilcox
From: Las Cruces, NM
Apr 12, 2012
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b

scary solo lead because there was a lot of rope drag on the second pitch, not because the bolts but because i had no place to coil the rope on the hanging belay so i had to drag the whole rope up as i went