Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
East Face - Lower
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Hitchcock Gully 
Left Hand Monkey Wrench 
Mountain Project continues to expand with Hiking Project, and we're giving away loads of gear from Arc'Teryx, Superfeet, & Zeal. Check it out!

Hitchcock Gully 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a WI3-

   
Type:  Ice, 2 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a WI3- [details]
FA: Unknown
Season: winter
Page Views: 6,580
Submitted By: BrianWinslow on Feb 3, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (50)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: Lauren about halfway up Upper Hitchcock

Description 

The climb is broken into the lower and upper Hitchock gullies with a pitch of easy hiking between the two. The lower pitch is often used to provide access to the many options of the east face slabs. The lower pitch is somewhat thin, moderate ice and snow to a 5.5 rock finish. Protect the top with slings on good trees. I would only give the first pitch one star if it were by itself, unless you are interested in moderate mixed climbing.

Be aware, especially later in the day, that P1 is the standard descent (rap) for climbers who have done Cinema and/or many of the climbs on the upper slabs.

The upper Hitchock gully is a great WI 3- pitch in a deep cleft. It feels like a miniature version of the Pinnacle gully in Huntington Ravine and though it is a full pitch feels way too short. This is a four star pitch for a moderate ice climber.

Location 

Hike south on the train tacks, just after crossing the second bridge look for a post on the right. (There's a memorial cross here, if it isn't covered with snow.) Hike up a somewhat sketchy approach, depending on snow conditions. The start to the gully is obvious. The upper gully is directly above the lower, with 150ft or so between the two.

Protection 

Short screws and slings for the first pitch, maybe some nut placements. Standard ice rack for the second pitch


Photos of Hitchcock Gully Slideshow Add Photo
Lower & Upper Hitchcock Gulley (April 10, 2014)
BETA PHOTO: Lower & Upper Hitchcock Gulley (April 10, 2014)
Final Pillar on Upper Hitchcock. Easier variation ...
Final Pillar on Upper Hitchcock. Easier variation ...
Bruce coming through the Mixed section of Lower Hi...
Bruce coming through the Mixed section of Lower Hi...
Lauren Leading
Lauren Leading
Looking down at Chad making his way up upper hitch...
Looking down at Chad making his way up upper hitch...
Upper Hitchock, February 2012
BETA PHOTO: Upper Hitchock, February 2012
Upper Hitchcock.
BETA PHOTO: Upper Hitchcock.
Lauren on the approach trail
Lauren on the approach trail
Upper Hitchcock Gully
Upper Hitchcock Gully
Leading the rock portion of Lower Hitchcock.  It g...
Leading the rock portion of Lower Hitchcock. It g...
Snowy hitchcock
Snowy hitchcock

Comments on Hitchcock Gully Add Comment
Show which comments
By J Antin
From: Golden, CO
Feb 1, 2010
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a WI3-

A threaded sling is on Lower Hitchcock protecting the mixed portion of the route. Fun climb!
By E thatcher
From: Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
Feb 10, 2010

I would agree with the statement in the description that the first pitch is some what less the stellar. In fact, I was kind of let down. Left Hand Monkey wrench to Upper Hitchcock is in my mind a superior climb.
By nhclimber
From: Newmarket, NH
Mar 1, 2010
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a WI3-

Earlier this year I noticed a pin on the rock traverse for the first time. I love that little bit of spice, it redeems the rest of the pitch!
By Jeffrey.LeCours
From: New Hampshire
Jul 17, 2011

If anyone was wondering... 7/16/2011: Hitchcock Gully is not "in". :) and if you're looking for Across the Universe, the SHORT approach trail is further down the rail road tracks... hah!
Beyond the Guidebook:
The Definitive Climbing Resource
Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run
Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps
Backcountry, Sidecountry
and Secret Stashes
Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!