Hitchcock Gully 5.5 WI3-
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| Type: | Ice, 2 pitches |
| Consensus: | 5.5 WI3- [details] |
| FA: | Unknown |
| Season: | winter |
| Submitted By: | BrianWinslow on Feb 3, 2008 |
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Upper Hitchcock Gully
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Description The climb is broken into the lower and upper Hitchock gullies with a pitch of easy hiking between the two. The lower pitch is often used to provide access to the many options of the east face slabs. The lower pitch is somewhat thin, moderate ice and snow to a 5.5 rock finish. Protect the top with slings on good trees. I would only give the first pitch one star if it were by itself, unless you are interested in moderate mixed climbing. The upper Hitchock gully is a great WI 3- pitch in a deep cleft. It feels like a miniature version of the Pinnacle gully in Huntington Ravine and though it is a full pitch feels way too short. This is a four star pitch for a moderate ice climber.
Location Hike south on the train tacks, just after crossing the second bridge look for a post on the right. Hike up a somewhat sketchy approach, depending on snow conditions. The start to the gully is obvious. The upper gully is directly above the lower, with 150ft or so between the two.
Protection Short screws and slings for the first pitch, maybe some nut placements. Standard ice rack for the second pitch
Final Pillar on Upper Hitchcock. Easier variation ...
| Bruce coming through the Mixed section of Lower Hi...
| Looking down at Chad making his way up upper hitch...
| BETA PHOTO: Upper Hitchcock.
| Snowy hitchcock
| BETA PHOTO: Upper Hitchock, February 2012
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| Comments on Hitchcock Gully |
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By J Antin From: Denver, CO Feb 1, 2010 rating: 5.5 WI3-
| A threaded sling is on Lower Hitchcock protecting the mixed portion of the route. Fun climb! |
By E thatcher From: Plymouth/ North Conway (NH) Feb 10, 2010
| I would agree with the statement in the description that the first pitch is some what less the stellar. In fact, I was kind of let down. Left Hand Monkey wrench to Upper Hitchcock is in my mind a superior climb. |
By nhclimber From: Newmarket, NH Mar 1, 2010 rating: 5.5 WI3-
| Earlier this year I noticed a pin on the rock traverse for the first time. I love that little bit of spice, it redeems the rest of the pitch! |
By Jeffrey LeCours From: New Hampshire Jul 17, 2011
| If anyone was wondering... 7/16/2011: Hitchcock Gully is not "in". :) and if you're looking for Across the Universe, the SHORT approach trail is further down the rail road tracks... hah! |
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