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Hitch Hike the Plane
5.13- YDS 7c+ French 29 Ewbanks IX+ UIAA 29 ZA E7 6c British
Avg: 4 from 1
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Routes in Krottenseer Turm
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Chasin the Trane S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Hitch Hike the Plane S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Ira Technokratie S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c PG13 |
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Westwand S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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| Type: | Sport, 60 ft (18 m) |
| FA: | Wolfgang Gullich, 1984 |
| Page Views: | 1,168 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | Monomaniac on Nov 21, 2014 |
| Admins: | Shawn Heath |
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Description
This stellar line of sinker pockets was Wolfgang Gullichs friendly response to John Bachars groundbreaking ascent of Chasin the Trane. It didnt have the same impact as Bachars climb, but it was certainly a sign of things to come. Proximity and rhyming aside, this line climbs quite differently from its neighbor, though the climbing is just as good if not better. This is quintessential Frankenjura, with impeccable rock, sinker pockets, and gymnastic climbing on steep terrain.
Begin with a one-move boulder problem to clear the undercut. Find a no-hands rest on the slab(and enough chalk dust to supply the IFSC World Cup circuit), and contemplate the intimidating bulge. Make big spans between deep, complex pockets to reach a detached flake and a strenuous clip. As your power fades, make desperate slaps and stabs over the last bit of the bulge to gain the headwall. Weave between the dihedrals, following pumpy but positive pockets up the headwall to the top.
Begin with a one-move boulder problem to clear the undercut. Find a no-hands rest on the slab(and enough chalk dust to supply the IFSC World Cup circuit), and contemplate the intimidating bulge. Make big spans between deep, complex pockets to reach a detached flake and a strenuous clip. As your power fades, make desperate slaps and stabs over the last bit of the bulge to gain the headwall. Weave between the dihedrals, following pumpy but positive pockets up the headwall to the top.
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