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History of nuts

Original Post
Ivan Rezucha · · Fort Collins, CO · Joined Nov 2001 · Points: 7,855

I found a fascinating history of nuts at this site:
needlesports.com/nutsmuseum…
Check out the sliders from 1946!

I'd like to know in what year did RP's become available in the states. That article says Roland Pauligk showed RP's to Chouinard in 77, but were they available earlier? I think I remember Roland Pauligk selling them in the Gunks, but maybe it was someone else who was selling them on behalf of Roland.

The photo at the bottom looks a lot like our "nuclear arsenal" when Chuck, Luke and I climb wide cracks. Maybe we are the nuts?

Be sure to check out the links at the bottom of that page for more "nut stories".

Steve Levin · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 952

Chris Peisker brought RPs to Eldorado in summer of 1977. That may have been one of their first appearance on US soil (it was in Colorado). They revolutionized gear-dickering in the stubborn thin seams of Eldo. When Chris returned to Australia in September '77 he sent me a complete set (including the aluminum #6) postpaid for US$12. This may have been one of the first sets owned by a US climber. I still have most of that original set, although they're frayed and no longer safe to use.

Chris was the RP "sales rep" in the US during his visits for the remainder of the 70s. Jim Michael took over after that, and has been the distributor for the intervening decades. Unfortunately Roland Pauligk has been suffering from cancer and production dropped to the point where they are no longer available in the US.

trundlebum · · Las Vegas NV · Joined Aug 2007 · Points: 85

My rack still sports a set of RP's.
I bought them off (I think Peisker) in the Valley, fall of 78.
I don't recall what I paid, but they must have been pretty inexpensive since even a 'dirt bag' could afford them.
(under $30.00 for a full set, perhaps)

I am a little torn as to what to do with them ?
Use them and risk slow degeneration or full on welding one inadvertently,
or retire them for posterity ?

I bought a new set of the BD micro nuts (they just aren't the same).

I luurve those RP's but since you can't get them anymore...
I think I'd rather keep them safe and use a facsimile (HB offsets perhaps?).

I remember when first seeing the RP's being a little 'hoob'd' at the way the dead ends of the wires are silver soldered into the head of the nut. I was so used to seeing a swaged loop.
I have never heard of the wires blowing through the nut on an RP and it has proved to be a viable (and revolutionary at the time) construction technique.

Roland has been a folk hero of mine since I became aware of he and his craft in 78'

NHNT, But I wanted to mention:
Ivan I looked at your Gunks photos...
They sure brought back memories I must say.
I have only been to the Gunks a few short visits, However my first time there (Oct. 76) was quite memorable.
A partner and I hitch hiked there from N.Conway NH.
We got there with just enough daylight to climb up and 'make camp' on the 'High Exposure' ledge.
My first good look at the crag was in the morning sun from the 'High E' ledge ;)

Part of my own personal museum:
johnnyray.trundlebum.com/im…

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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