Very, very cool. Fingers to a stance, then very thin face moves up a dihedral protected by micronuts. Originally stopped about 50 feet up. Later pushed up through the thin dihedral.
Look for the finger crack up the arete, right near where the trail hits the cliff, down canyon from Red Tail Tower.
Initally had two fixed Simond pins at the low stance. 2 #0 (purple TCU), 3-4 Gray and purple Camalot sizes, one #2 Camalot useful for the hands section, possible to place a #0.75 in the pocket in the dihedral up top. One quickdraw.
|By George Perkins|
From: Los Alamos, NM
Nov 1, 2013
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a
The micro nut seam has a bolt, so you're not relying on RPs anymore to keep you from big air, though they may be worth bringing anyway especially if you might have to pull through on gear. It's generally finger-size and larger gear the rest of the way.
(The bolt is above where the old "Cochiti mesa"-era 2-piton anchor was. When Josh, Calita, and I climbed this, we hadn't yet talked to anyone who climbed here 20 years earlier. I continued past the old anchor and aided a chossy bird-shit roof to the left, I think one of those guys might have followed it clean. We cleaned the bushes and dirt from the right-facing dihedral seam above the old 2-piton anchor and left a couple of micro-nuts in tricky placements in. We also cleaned the old pins. Josh was first to pinkpoint the full current route, which was an improvement over the already cool, original shorter version. Because no one would bother to repeat it with the requirement of aiding first to place gear, and it seemed like cheating to have pre-loaded the crack, we agreed and Josh added the bolt. I'm still not sure what the lesson is.)