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Historical Routes

Select Route:
Andiron T 
Arsonist T,TR 
Ashen Face T,TR 
Ball of Fire TR 
Banana Peel T 
Blazing Saddles T,TR 
Blue Blazes T 
Boiling Cauldron T 
Burned Beyond Recognition T,TR 
Burning Ember T 
Burnt Offering T,TR 
Charred Remains TR 
Cremated TR 
Ditch Digger T 
Eternal Flame TR 
False Alarm T 
Fanning the Flames TR 
Fire Escape T 
Firebird T,TR 
Firecracker T 
Fireplace T 
Firewood T 
Flaming Arrow T 
Flashback T 
Forest Fire T 
Funeral Pyre T 
Hearthstone T 
Hot Coals T 
Incinerator T 
Kindling T 
Light My Fire T 
No Smoking T 
Phoenix T 
Playing with Fire T,TR 
Pyromaniac T 
Red Hot TR 
Rib Roast T 
Scorched Earth T 
Smoke-Out T 
Spark Arrester T 

Historical Routes  


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Location: 41.649, -72.8335 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 4,573
Administrators: Morgan Patterson, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Clint Cummins on Apr 25, 2009
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BETA PHOTO: Fire Wall - middle right
line drawing from Traproc...

Description 

70' west facing cliff. Excellent rock with some large roofs. The sport routes here are spicy and many of them require a piece or two of gear. Somehow Ken Nichols was able to find 40 routes on this small cliff, most people only climb the 15 or so bolted routes that have been added down below in some line drawings/topos.


In 8/2008 a group of climbers (C3 Connecticut Climbers Coalition) obtained permission from the town of Southington to place bolts at the Fire Wall. They also stabilized trails and cleaned up trash in the area.

BEWARE: This area has Timber Rattlers (Sept. 2012)

Getting There 

Park at Crescent Lake Park, but a $25 annual parking pass is required, the parking lot is small (about 30 spaces), is shared by resident park users, and it is USUALLY gated between 5pm and 7am. Parking passes are sold at the Southington town hall (parks and rec. dept. - basement) during normal business hours. If you park there, hike east along the shore of the reservoir, then up to the crag. The gate closes at different times during the year so pay attention to the posted signs and dont be late getting out of there or you may have a long walk home.

Route List 

Route descriptions are adapted from Hooked on Traprock - Rock Climbing in Central Connecticut, Ken Nichols, 1995 (out of print and somewhat rare/expensive).
Rock Climbing Connecticut, David Fasulo, 2002 includes 14 of these climbs and 1 line drawing.
For the best line drawings, see Traprock - Rock Climbing in Central Connecticut, Ken Nichols, 1982 (available used on amazon.com).

Routes from left to right:
  • Ashen Face 5.9- RH *, tiny LFC
  • Flaming Arrow 5.8+ *, small LFC
  • Andiron 5.4 **, first major LFC
  • Firewood 5.8 *, second major LFC
  • Kindling 5.5 *, on R wall of Firewood
  • Hot Coals 5.5 R *, third major LFC
  • Red Hot 5.11 T *, R side of Hot Coals arete
  • Incinerator 5.10+ *, bulge to face
  • False Alarm 5.9+ *, crack through 12" overlap
  • Pyromaniac 5.11 *, overhanging corner to crack and freestanding flake
  • Arsonist 5.11- RH **, overhang to thin cracks and flake
  • Playing with Fire 5.11+ H **, left end of huge roof to left leaning corner
  • Fanning the Flames 5.9+ T *, var. start 7' L of Firebird
  • Firebird 5.10+ RH ***, middle of huge roof, 8' L along lip
  • Phoenix 5.10 ***, R of Firebird above lip
  • Blue Blazes 5.9+ R **, R to small LFC above lip (5.10 start)
  • Charred Remains 5.10- T *, L arete finish to Burned Beyond Recognition (5.11 start)
  • Burned Beyond Recognition 5.11 H ***, R end of huge roof to corner
  • Scorched Earth 5.4 R, blocky rock
  • Firecracker 5.9 *, contact line between blocky rock and smooth face
  • Cremated 5.10 T *, middle of steep face
  • Funeral Pyre 5.10- R **, small rounded corners
  • Banana Peel 5.5 *, gradually rising horizontal crack
  • Burnt Offering 5.9 RH **, L side of scoop, R of Banana Peel to join Funeral Pyre
  • Forest Fire 5.8+ *, R side of scoop
  • Flashback 5.9 **, 15' corner, R of water streak
  • Smoke-Out 5.7 R *, low overhang 3' R of Flashback, to face
  • No Smoking 5.10+ X *, low overhang 7' R of Flashback
  • Fire Escape 5.10- *, widest part of low overhang 12' R of Flashback
  • Blazing Saddles 5.9+ H *, 8' L of Light My Fire
  • Light My Fire 5.11- R **, bottomless left leaning corner at end of overhang
  • Burning Ember 5.9 *, crack through overhang to bottomless RFC
  • Eternal Flame 5.11 T **, R through overhang, up middle of overhanging face
  • Ball of Fire 5.11 T *, start on Eternal Flame, undercling R to arete
  • Fireplace 5.5 *, large RFC
  • Rib Roast 5.5 X, edge of narrow rib
  • Ditch Digger 5.0, low angle corner and chimney
  • Hearthstone 5.4, RFC 20' R of Fireplace
  • Boiling Caldron 5.9+ *, middle of face between Hearthstone and Spark Arrester
  • Spark Arrester 5.9+ *, roof to arete

Climbing Season



Weather station 0.9 miles from here

40 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',4],['2 Stars',8],['1 Star',24],['Bomb',4]
['<=5.6',9],['5.7',1],['5.8',3],['5.9',11],['5.10',8],['5.11',8],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


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Photos of Historical Routes Slideshow Add Photo
Fire Wall - far left <br />line drawing from Traprock, Ken Nichols, 1982
BETA PHOTO: Fire Wall - far left
line drawing from Traprock, K...
Fire Wall - middle left <br />line drawing from Traprock, Ken Nichols, 1982
BETA PHOTO: Fire Wall - middle left
line drawing from Traprock...
Fire Wall - far right <br />line drawing from Traprock, Ken Nichols, 1982
BETA PHOTO: Fire Wall - far right
line drawing from Traprock, ...

Comments on Historical Routes Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Oct 14, 2012
By Clint Cummins
From: Palo Alto, CA
May 5, 2009
Yes, Ken gave me permission to use this material.
By MJMobes
From: The land of steady habits
May 11, 2009
thanks for posting this then, I see a great undone mixed line I'm going to have to put up for all to enjoy.
By Ben Chisols
Jun 9, 2009
Many of these lines were renamed, as they were never led properly. Once the area has been redeveloped the correct names and pictures will go up.

BC
By Brian
From: North Kingstown, RI
Oct 27, 2011
Thanks for updating the topos with the new routes. Topos are more helpful than descriptions.
By Brady Callahan
From: Lyndonville, VT
May 20, 2012
Does anyone know the range of the ratings of the sport climbs here?
By MJMobes
From: The land of steady habits
May 25, 2012
Brady- its all written in the line drawings posted by Shylo and comments, so far nobody has entered any routes officially. Zoom into the line drawings.
By Devin Kelly
Jul 15, 2012
Whats with the padlocks on the second and third bolts of firecracker?
By Morgan Patterson
Administrator
Jul 18, 2012
Someone's idea of protesting the bolts I would assume. . . Supposedly you can still clip the bolts. It should be noted that these bolts were placed with permission from the Town of Southington (Land Owner) and any attempt to vandalize them is punishable by law including, trespassing, vandalism, endangerment of life.

If you or anyone sees anyone damaging or messing with the bolts they should call the Southington Police Department @ (860) 378-1600. Please follow this person to their car and get their licence plate number so the police can be certain of that person's identity. If someone admits to putting the locks on the bolts please report them to the police or PM me and I will...

I find it interesting how the elite trad ethic degrades into leaving trash on the walls of our crags when they don't approve of something the Town and majority of local climbers approved. It's obvious this was a cowardly act... these people sicken me.
By MJMobes
From: The land of steady habits
Jul 20, 2012
I believe it was an out of town coward who came to visit mommy and stir the pot of shit. Nice locks, probably taken from daddies garage without permission.

Still plenty of room to clip, no problem really.
By Devin Kelly
Jul 23, 2012
Yeah i noticed there was still room to get into the bolts, i just wasnt sure if it was another anti bolt move or if the bolts were sketchy and someone was trying to save lives lol
By qmynd
Sep 23, 2012
Is the height of this cliff 70' or is that how long it is. Either way it seems off. It seemed like only 40ft high in some sections and much longer then 70'.
By Morgan Patterson
Administrator
Sep 25, 2012
It's probably around 70ft at the tallest points... One usually quotes a cliffs height by the largest vertical not the shortest sections.
By Echoinfi
Oct 14, 2012
The large death block was removed from the top of the 5.11c. The tree that was under the big roof was also removed. Next step is the padlocks which are unsightly compared to the camo anchors.