Histoplasmosis 

There are chains on top of this climb so making a (gear) anchor is optional.

Hey Dcohn can you get to the ground with a sixty meter rope?

Not unless it is a REALLY long 60 meter rope.

I sort of remember this, because at the time (1983) the local climbers were just getting into the exciting realm of 5.12 (or so we thought). Anyway, this first went free in two pitches, the first led by Gary Hervert -- one of Tucson's best early (McKewen-Baker era) climbers -- and the second led by Chip Chace -- who lived in Tucson for a short while but left quite a trail of hard, impressive ascents, particularly in the Dragoons. All I did was eliminate the hanging belay. Also, I think I was with John Sherman that day, not Smitty.

I changed the people in the FA, i noted the EFR guide which has smitty in the FA. Thanks for the corrections John.

Oh sure blame EFR and SQII! You might want to check again there Josh! SQII page 167 14. Hist.....(JS,JSh,83) Not sure why I didn't note the FA's of the original 2 pitches. You see what how easy it is for someone to use me as their scapegoat? Ha, but I am on to you Josh! Just kidding brother.

With the amount of routes in SQII, mistakes are inevitable efr. Besides, how can i ever forgive myself for quoting a climber without triple checking the sources!? We all know that climbers cannot be trusted!

we were able to TR this w/ a 70m off the chains. Fantastically amazing route - looking forward to the redpoint

70 meter definitely reaches the ground.

This is by far one of the best pitches I've done on Lemmon. It's worth noting that the last 20 feet is run out 10- climbing to the top. Superb movement.

Beg to differ on the last 20 feet being run out. I found good pro to the top.

Eric- I recall the line eating stoppers and cams before the bolts. After pulling the crux (bolt-protected...this route must have gone free on gear only?) I ended up on a little shelf and placed a good .4 BD and shot up right. From the shelf it looks like one can choose a variety of 20-foot exits. The way I took out right was not protected. Maybe heading straight up is the better protected option. Either way, a classic pitch.

Totally classic Brian. I know there is another piece between the one you mention and the top just not sure what it is, but it was good. Jesse Schultz might remember as it was his second trad route ever and I am pretty sure he found it too.

classic!! an amazingly fun climb!!

stoppers and doubles through blue camalot worked well for me. above the bolts, if you trend up and slightly right (you will end up 4' to the right of the anchors), you should cross at least three solid placements. (spoiler alert) this included a yellow camalot, a yellow alien, and a #3 ballnut.

A bomber large nut, then .75 and #1 BDs go in past the bulge, straight-in placements (ie perpendicular to the rock) but about as bomber as straight-in placements can be..

edit to comment above: Geir is a passive-pro master so unless u are likewise, you might consider bringing more cams...(.75s seem to fit in everywhere on this route)