Hiring a guide at NRG for sport?

A group of us are planning to go climbing in the New on over Memorial Weekend. We're climbing at the 5.8-5.10 range on top rope, and two of us comfortable leading 5.8 in the gym.

Is it worth hiring a guide for this trip, if our intention is bolted routes? Does the area have enough bolted routes to stay entertained for a couple days at the 5.7/5.8 grade? (Trying to do this smart, but still experience NRG and push our climbing capability to leading sport and be more self-sufficient outdoors.)

Thoughts? Am I being over cautious? Biting off more than we can chew? A waste of money getting a guide for sport routes?

There aren't many bolted lines below 5.8 (or even 5.10, for that matter) at the New to keep you busy over a few days, and the ones that do exist tend to be pretty spread out between crags. Sandstonia in Bubba City may be the lone exception, but even those tend to be in the 5.9 and harder range.

Hiring a guide is a good idea. The largest concentration of quality moderate lines are generally in largely trad-only regions (bridge, junkyard, etc), and a guide could easily keep you entertained over the long weekend. Alternately, you can always hit one of the uber-popular crags by yourselves and rely on the goodwill of others to clean your gear if you can't finish a line.

Like poster above said, Sandstonia is going to be your best bet. There are some areas at Summersville Lake like Orange Oswald that have a few bolted climbs 5.8 and below. There is also some parts of Upper Meadow like Zero Buttress that have some easier climbs. I would suggest either buying the guidebook or buying the rakkup app and seeing for yourself. My best advice would be to come here, buy a stick clip, learn to use it and push yourself to your max. Above all else you can have fun here climbing and the community is really helpful.

My best advice would be to come here, buy a stick clip, learn to use it and push yourself to your max.

I guess I'd be a little bit more circumspect. If your group is experienced only in the gym 5.8 - 5.10, then hopping on 5.8s outside to lead, especially at the New, may be slightly disappointing and potentially dangerous. Climbing outside brings new challenges compared to the gym (including route finding - the holds may not be marked by chalk - and anchor setting/cleanup). Climbing a 5.8 outside usually does not feel like climbing a 5.8 inside. As others have said, there aren't that many bolted <5.10 routes at NRG (Whipporwill will be under water), and Sandstonia, especially over a holiday weekend, will probably be crowded to the hilt. You can set up TR anchors from above at the Bridge Buttress, but this area will also likely be crowded over that weekend.

For more routes in <5.10 range, I find the Red River Gorge a better choice. Otherwise, I agree that a guide is a good idea (especially on the first day), to not only keep you "entertained," but to ensure that you're learning to climb safely outside. There is bouldering around too, though I'm not sure if you can rent a crashpad yet...

You should talk to Elaina Arenz at New River Gorge Mountain guides. I hung out with her at Joshua Tree once and she really is amazing. She is very familiar with all of the local climbing areas and can point you in the right direction or maybe guide you on a climbing day.

Are you absolutely set on the New as your destination? Like someone else said, the concentration of routes there within your ability level (5.8-5.10) is not that high. The trad routes mentioned might be within that range grade-wise, but I think you will find most trad routes are of a different style than you will find in the gym, so even though it's 5.8 it will feel harder than that coming straight from the gym (same could be said of a lot of sport routes honestly).

The Red I think will have more routes in your grade range and is also more "gym-like" in style (or at least some of the climbs are, the cracks...not so much).

As far as the guide goes, is anyone in your group experienced climbing outside? Regardless of where you go you will likely need to set and clean anchors, clean routes, etc. Yes you could maybe get someone nearby to do this for you, but I wouldn't go there with that as your plan A. If your group can't safely set up TRs, lead and clean routes, or whatever it is you plan on doing then yes, hire a guide.

Alternatively, make friends with more experienced climbers at your gym and see if they want to come along (you may have trade belay slave duty / beer for rope gun services, but that's cheaper than a guide).

I second Asymptote's advice, holler at New River Mountain Guides newriverclimbing.com

I'm not sure how their rates are but if you have a group you might be able to split the cost and find that its very reasonable, and you'll end up getting a lot of climbing in, probably at higher difficulties than you expected to, and maybe some sweet trad lines too.