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Mid Wall
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All my Friends are Aliens T 
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Flippo T 
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Hips and Valleys T 
Keith's Crack T 
Lawn Rake, The T 
PBR T 
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Robin's Ramp T 
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Stems & Valleys T 
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Waiting for the Sun S 
Wild Boar S 

Hips and Valleys 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c [details]
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Page Views: 400
Submitted By: Jon Nelson on Jul 30, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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BETA PHOTO: Red dots show Hips and Valleys. Climber is at the ...

Description 

Climb the short handcrack as in Flippo. Then traverse left to the right-facing, flaring chimney. Climb the chimney (5.8), then continue up the crack-flake system to the roof. Jam over the roof (5.9, though may be easier due to recent cleaning) into a corner, and continue up the corner for about 20 feet.

The route can be toproped using the chained anchor atop Robin's Ramp.


Location 

Same start as Flippo, but follows line left.


Protection 

Finger-sized to fist-sized cams.



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By geoff georges
From: Seattle, Wa.
Jun 25, 2013
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

This is a fun route and much cleaner as of 2013. fingers to chimney( 1# 4 camalot) tipped out at first, slide it up and back to good spot. to hands to fingers through a roof, to some techy thin crack stemming. I agree it is 5.8, but I will say 5.8+, though my friend Bill who cleaned it insists it is 5.8.

By Bill Ayre
Jul 21, 2013

This route is really clean now. I removed the last bit of root ball in the upper part of the dihedral in May I think. Dirt from that just fell through the lower crack in the dihedral which used to be choked. First time I tried this about five years ago I couldn't even get into the dihedral because there was nothing for hands. Now there are great finger locks and good (but small) gear.

I just lead it for the first time on Thursday after having TR'd many times. The chimney which is much easier than Butt-lips on Aries was my concern on gear. I just had to get my head around it and go. It took a #5 but I wish I'd had Geoff's #4 too. Jerry followed with approach shoes he wants to take to the Bugaboos and did fine.

This route is no harder than Timberjack, the upper pitch of Magic Fern, or Aries/Lizard so yes, I think it is a 5.8. It is easier than Toxic Shock, Wet Dream and Battered Sandwich and Plumb Pudding which Geoff agrees is a 5.9. It has great variety and fun moves - I'll keep coming back.

By Sherri Lewis
From: Sequim, WA
Sep 14, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Thanks for cleaning this! We really enjoyed it. Recent rains have re-deposited a bit of dirt in the finger crack but not enough to render it unusable--I scraped out some with my nut tool but that section will likely need more attention after the wet season to keep it in such nice condition.

I had only a #4 for the chimney which made it feel a little heady (a #5 would have helped, as the #4 was tipped) but it sure is fun --climbs more like an offwidth than a true chimney and facing toward town gives you more options. While the chimney is much more enjoyable than Butt Lips on Aries, I would not call it 5.8. Closer to an honest 5.9, in my opinion. The moves into and through the dihedral were also good.

Extras in blue/green alien size come in handy once you hit the dihedral.