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hip/pelvic antagonist exercises.
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By SamJohnson
From Windsor, ON
Mar 14, 2013

I've climbed about 16 years, and over the last 5 years developed pain in my hips when walking or running ( but not climbing) that I'm starting to think is just muscle imbalance from doing moves like can opener type flagging movements (one foot high on hold pulling in, other foot low pushing hard into wall) with my legs. I've seen antagonist muscle exercises for forearms and shoulders , and these have helped a bunch with typical climber injuries of shoulders and elbows... anybody have any good antagonist exercises/stretches for the hip joint?

I'll note that recently Steve McClure's blog suggested he was doing some sort of exercises like this, but without details.


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By CBW
Mar 14, 2013

Not to worry you, but this hip pain sounds too familiar. Go see an orthopedic surgeon that specializes in Femoral Acetabular Impingement. I know a few climbers, runners, bikers: myself included that needed this surgery. FAI
it is worth ruling out FAI early, as no amount of stretching, yoga, acupuncture, etc will make a difference if your labrum is torn to bits. Good luck.


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By SamJohnson
From Windsor, ON
Mar 15, 2013

Thanks for the reply. I hope it isn't. To be clear, I have been through months of physio (mostly planks and squat-like exercises) prior to having an eager orthopod scope it and smooth out to labrum, about two years ago. No change.
I really think this is climbing related because a 6 month break from climbing caused improvement.

To quote the McClure blog "My leg raising ability may be good, but itís actually rotating my pelvis ". Sounds like the pelvic version of hunched shoulders?


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