Hip to Toe
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Stemming, stemming, and more stemming. Photo by Da...
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The name says it all. This route is the advanced version of Double Trouble and features sustained, semi-monotonous stem-work from bottom to top. Hip to Toe is another neglected classic that deserves far more attention than it gets. (likely due to the gear) If you're dialed in on the TC friction and stemming, the grade will feel right on, otherwise, it'll be doubly desperate. Either way expect more steep, classic climbing on bomber (albeit thin) gear from bottom to top.
In between U1 and Gold Rush. Look for a twin-crack stem box with two cracks about a foot apart.
I brought 3x yellow TCUs, 7x blue TCUs, 5x Purple TCUs, 3x Gray TCUs and used them all. If you're bold, you could definitely do with less.