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Hip at the Lip 
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Hip at the Lip 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a PG13

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 140'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Kurt Smith and Alan Nelson
Page Views: 92
Submitted By: Mark E Dixon on Oct 24, 2013
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Climb directly upwards to the first bolt (hard), then turn the roof with a fun move. Enjoy at least one pleasant surprise. Compose yourself. Head up a pretty face following bolts. It is generally solid and clean except for a bit of sandiness towards the top.

The bolt spacing is reminiscent of the Red Slab.

This route does NOT go to the midway anchor shown in Mark Rolofson's guide, although with some shenanigans you could probably get there.

Rappelling with a 60 meter rope will only get you to the 2nd bolt. A 70 meter MIGHT reach the ground but probably not if lowering with the rope still running through the draws.

It is difficult to belay from the top and bring up a second climber, as they are invisible below the roof and inaudible because of traffic noise. If they fall before the first bolt, rope stretch drops them onto the pointy rocks at the base.

This is a fun sport and adventure route which is worth doing.


11 bolts, mostly coldshuts with a few modern hangers for variety.

Stick clip the first bolt or don't fall. It's a very bad landing!

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