Hillbilly Rock 1 

I did not name the rock. But, hey, a lot of work must have gone into these hick names!

BTW, there are two more routes on the left side that I have not done. The left-most is I Reckon, 12a, and can (barely) be seen from the road. Right of this is Boy Howdy, 11b.

Wow! The leap from 10c to 11b on these routes is intense. Perhaps I was suffering from cranial rectitus, but the 10bs and the 10c seemed underrated while the 11b and 12a were quite burley for their grades.

The crag has a slight western exposure, so was in the shade till noon when we visited in May. And if you follow the existing trail you'll have more fun than we did wandering through the poison ivy covered rock slopes. From the parking described above, scramble up to a large pine tree. The trail then skirts a low wall, and stays on the left side (looking up) of the gully. A few cairns would help channel traffic and eventually lead to a better trail, if anybody got motivated to build them.

I visited this crag yesterday. Worth the one day visit, but now sporting many thistles at the base, but doable. There are 6 routes working easier to harder from right to left. The best approach(avoiding all Ivy): head up the right side of the drawthat you see straight up from the very beginning (going up canyon) of the turnout. Take this straight up to a cliff and skirt left to Hillbilly.

Climbed here yesterday and felt a little misled by reports of a short approach. While it's not far, the gully is very steep and loose. I agree with Mark- the best "trail" is on the left side. The routes were fun though, except that the top anchors are a little screwy on the right side and rope drag is a problem- be prepared to rap off every time.

Also, we found an empty rope bag up there- if it's yours, describe it for me, and I will be happy to return it to you.

Does anyone know if there is any new development going on the little cliffs around this area?

Was up here today and really enjoyed myself! We were looking for something new to us and a little obscure away from crowds, and it was definitely found here. The routes, albeit short, were not too far from great in my opinion...definitely deserve more stars than Antonio gives in his guidebook. The approach is steep and loose, but it's really not too bad at all. We did all six routes from right to left. The 5.8 was one of the better 5.8s I've done in the canyon with really cool moves near the top. The .11 and the .12 felt really burly to me, but I am 5'6". I would give the .11 a grade of .11c/d for shorter people. Even the .10b next to it felt like .10c or d to me. All in all though, I would say this crag is certainly a place to check out if you're getting bored of the more popular and crowded areas.

Fun day out and had the crag to ourselves. Things of note: lots of wasps all over this crag - and this after the canyon got below freezing last night - be aware. Also - the D'Antonio guidebook has I'll Be Dipped, Square Dance, and Hoo-Doggy with separate anchors, but we only found 2. The approach is steep but very manageable.