|Hillbilly Rock 1
New crags seem to magically appear in Boulder Canyon... how long can it last? Previously unnamed, the lowest of the Hillbilly Rocks offers six routes graded 5.8 to 5.12a. The right side harbors the easiest route and the poorest stone - the rock gets better and the climbing harder as you go left. It is in the shade in the morning.
A. I Reckon, 12-, 1p, 50', bolts.
B. Boy Howdy, 11, 1p, 35', bolts.
C. Like Water For Bob, 10, 1p, 50', bolts.
D. Dirt Shower, 11-, 1p, 50', gear.
E. I'll Be Dipped, 10, 1p, 50', bolts.
F. Square Dance, 10, 1p, 50', bolts.
G. Hoo-doggy, 8, 1p, 50', bolts.
Upstream from the Riviera, park in the pullout on the right (N side), just where the road widens to include a passing lane. The Inca Stone (aka Truth or Consequences) is just up the road and also on the right. Walk up the road a few yards, and find a poor trail that follows a steep drainage up the hill. There is a fair amount of poison ivy in the gully, especially on the R side.
From the bottom, you can just see the glimmer of bolts on the left-most of the six routes.
7 Total Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',6],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
Featured Route For Hillbilly Rock 1
Square Dance 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b CO
: Boulder Canyon
: ... : Hillbilly Rock 1
This is the middle line of three on the right side of this cliff. It is the 5th climb from the left on this cliff.Clip the two bolt of I'll be Dipped, then go up and slightly right, then up past a left-facing corner. The crux seemed to be getting in balance at the penultimate bolt....[more] Browse More Classics in CO
Local Information for Hillbilly Rock 1
Latest Regional Forum Messages
BETA PHOTO: Hillbilly Rock #1, Left Side. I Reckon, 12a...
BETA PHOTO: Brandon about to rap after climbing Square Dance. ...
|By Ray Snead|
Oct 1, 2002
I did not name the rock. But, hey, a lot of work must have gone into these hick names!
BTW, there are two more routes on the left side that I have not done. The left-most is I Reckon, 12a, and can (barely) be seen from the road. Right of this is Boy Howdy, 11b.
|By Joe Huggins|
From: 666 Rue le Jour-Edge City
Oct 13, 2002
Wow! The leap from 10c to 11b on these routes is intense. Perhaps I was suffering from cranial rectitus, but the 10bs and the 10c seemed underrated while the 11b and 12a were quite burley for their grades.
|By Mark Dixon|
Jul 20, 2003
The crag has a slight western exposure, so was in the shade till noon when we visited in May. And if you follow the existing trail you'll have more fun than we did wandering through the poison ivy covered rock slopes. From the parking described above, scramble up to a large pine tree. The trail then skirts a low wall, and stays on the left side (looking up) of the gully. A few cairns would help channel traffic and eventually lead to a better trail, if anybody got motivated to build them.
|By Tom Hayes|
Jun 17, 2005
I visited this crag yesterday. Worth the one day visit, but now sporting many thistles at the base, but doable. There are 6 routes working easier to harder from right to left. The best approach(avoiding all Ivy): head up the right side of the drawthat you see straight up from the very beginning (going up canyon) of the turnout. Take this straight up to a cliff and skirt left to Hillbilly.
|By Jake N.|
Sep 11, 2010
Climbed here yesterday and felt a little misled by reports of a short approach. While it's not far, the gully is very steep and loose. I agree with Mark- the best "trail" is on the left side. The routes were fun though, except that the top anchors are a little screwy on the right side and rope drag is a problem- be prepared to rap off every time.
Also, we found an empty rope bag up there- if it's yours, describe it for me, and I will be happy to return it to you.
Does anyone know if there is any new development going on the little cliffs around this area?
|By Andrew Shoemaker|
From: Garden Valley, ID
Mar 18, 2012
Was up here today and really enjoyed myself! We were looking for something new to us and a little obscure away from crowds, and it was definitely found here. The routes, albeit short, were not too far from great in my opinion...definitely deserve more stars than Antonio gives in his guidebook. The approach is steep and loose, but it's really not too bad at all. We did all six routes from right to left. The 5.8 was one of the better 5.8s I've done in the canyon with really cool moves near the top. The .11 and the .12 felt really burly to me, but I am 5'6". I would give the .11 a grade of .11c/d for shorter people. Even the .10b next to it felt like .10c or d to me. All in all though, I would say this crag is certainly a place to check out if you're getting bored of the more popular and crowded areas.
|By Matt Pierce|
From: Denver, CO
Oct 7, 2012
Fun day out and had the crag to ourselves. Things of note: lots of wasps all over this crag - and this after the canyon got below freezing last night - be aware. Also - the D'Antonio guidebook has I'll Be Dipped, Square Dance, and Hoo-Doggy with separate anchors, but we only found 2. The approach is steep but very manageable.
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 21, 2013
The rightmost three routes on this wall are missing a hanger on the first bolt (they share the first couple bolts). It's probably a good idea to take an extra piece of pro for these until someone can replace the hanger. The bolt itself looks to be in OK condition, but depending on how long it's been exposed, it may need to be replaced.
|By Jay Eggleston|
Jan 3, 2014
There is still a bolt with a missing hanger on the first three routes on the right. We slipped a wired nut cable over it, but it should be replaced at some point.