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Hillbilly Bouldering 
Hillbilly Routes 

Hillbilly Hollow 


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Lat, Long: 43.9771, -89.5005 Map
Page Views: 59,426. Good page? (11 likes)   
Administrators: Chris treggE, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: James M Schroeder on Sep 22, 2006

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Kayte Knower starts Pagan Rituals. Photo Ron Long

Description 

Hillbilly Hollow is a nice little sandstone bluff hidden behind a wayside along highway 39/51 in central Wisconsin. It has also gone by the following names Pasamead (Psamead?) Hollow, Area 51 and Liberty Rocks. It is a quiet getaway sporting about a day's worth of climbing.

At "The Hollow" one will find both traditional and sport routes ranging in difficulty from 5.6 to 5.13a. Two ultra-classic routes, Zig-zag Crack (5.10a Trad/TR) and Swiss Cheese (5.8 Sport/TR) make Hillbilly Hollow worth a stop if you are in the area.

Please be quiet and respectful when climbing here.


Getting There 

To find the Wayside start out southbound on Highway 39/51 from the Highway 21 interchange or further north. (Note: if approaching from the south one has to drive 5 min. past the wayside exit at Highway 21 and return southbound -- or poach the turnaround immediately north of the wayside "for emergency vehicles only") The wayside is located at about mile marker 120 (approx. 7 miles north of Westfield exit 113). Once in the wayside locate the shelter/bathrooms. Walk around the shelter on the left (east) side and locate a trail into the woods approx. 50 ft southeast of the shelter. Follow this trail through the woods, and slightly uphill. Upon reaching the shoulder of the ridgeline (this will all be apparent at the time), continue left to follow the trail into the canyon and the base of the climbs - or go right to access the top of the routes.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Hillbilly Hollow:
Red Storm Rising   V4     Boulder   Hillbilly Bouldering
5.6 dihedral   5.6     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 40 feet   Hillbilly Routes
Left Side Dihedral (aka Corner Crack)   5.7     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50 feet   Hillbilly Routes
The Repentance Crack   5.7 PG13     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 55 feet   Hillbilly Routes
Two Hands of Prayer   5.7     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 40 feet   Hillbilly Routes
Penitent Crack   5.7     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60 feet   Hillbilly Routes
End of the Innocence   5.7+     Sport, 1 pitch, 55 feet   Hillbilly Routes
Curse of the Drill   5.7+     Sport, 1 pitch, 55 feet   Hillbilly Routes
Pine Tree Crack   5.8     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 40 feet   Hillbilly Routes
Swiss Cheese   5.8     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 40 feet   Hillbilly Routes
End of the Innocence variation   5.8+     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 55 feet   Hillbilly Routes
PWB Arete   5.9     Sport   Hillbilly Routes
Zig-zag crack   5.10a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 40 feet   Hillbilly Routes
Sex Weed   5.10b     Trad, 1 pitch, 40 feet   Hillbilly Routes
Manic Depression   5.11c     Sport   Hillbilly Routes
Pagan Rituals   5.11d     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 40 feet   Hillbilly Routes
Generation Gap   5.12a     Sport   Hillbilly Routes
Booze Pigs   5.12b     Sport, TR, 40 feet   Hillbilly Routes
Turkish Revenge   5.13a     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 40 feet   Hillbilly Routes
Browse More Classics in Hillbilly Hollow

Featured Route For Hillbilly Hollow
Zig-zag crack is the obvious crack in the middle (route 2)

Zig-zag crack 5.10a  WI : Hillbilly Hollow : Hillbilly Routes
This is a great route that follows the Zig-zagging crack on the South facing wall of the canyon. There are lines of bolts on both sides of this route. It starts to left of what could be called a cave, but still surmounts an overhang in the beginning....[more]   Browse More Classics in WI


Photos of Hillbilly Hollow Slideshow Add Photo
This is the new revised route map for the area.

BETA PHOTO: This is the new revised route map for the area.

<a href='http://www.dot.wisconsin.gov/travel/restareas/ra81.htm' target='_blank' rel='nofollow' >www.dot.wisconsin.gov/travel/restareas/ra81.htm</a>

BETA PHOTO: www.dot.wisconsin.gov/travel/restareas/ra81...

first face climb as you walk in (behind tree)  <br />protected lead, bit dirty <br />rating: unknown <br />Name: unknown

BETA PHOTO: first face climb as you walk in (behind tree)
pro...


better shot of lower section of first climb

BETA PHOTO: better shot of lower section of first climb

second face on your way in.  Large face of moderate to easy climbs, easy set ups on top.

second face on your way in. Large face of moderat...

third face as you walk in <br />short, one bolt climb <br />Rating: unkown 5.11??  <br />Name: unknown

BETA PHOTO: third face as you walk in
short, one bolt climb
Ra...


Short face block on outside of hollow <br />crack is a 5.8 face is a bit harder a ten maybe?

BETA PHOTO: Short face block on outside of hollow
crack is a 5...


inside the hollow

inside the hollow

5.2 access climb it top of hollow rock.

5.2 access climb it top of hollow rock.

Objective hazard: The Dreaded Wood Tick

BETA PHOTO: Objective hazard: The Dreaded Wood Tick

Techni-color awesomeness

Techni-color awesomeness

Surreal

Surreal

This is a topo for the area. If I have made any errors, please let me know.

BETA PHOTO: This is a topo for the area. If I have made any er...

A strong opinion

A strong opinion

Little cave BP in talus south of Zig-Zag Wall.

BETA PHOTO: Little cave BP in talus south of Zig-Zag Wall.

This is found on the backside of the PWB Block. Climbed yet?

BETA PHOTO: This is found on the backside of the PWB Block. Cl...

Top half of crack on backside of PWB Block.

BETA PHOTO: Top half of crack on backside of PWB Block.

Nice slab boulder in the south talus field.

BETA PHOTO: Nice slab boulder in the south talus field.

Overhanging dihedral on the backside of the PWB Block.

BETA PHOTO: Overhanging dihedral on the backside of the PWB Bl...

SW face of PWB Block. Climbed yet?

BETA PHOTO: SW face of PWB Block. Climbed yet?

Another potential BP in the south talus. Around the corner to the right of this is the awesome looking overhanging arete problem I posted a pic of earlier.

BETA PHOTO: Another potential BP in the south talus. Around th...

There is one bolt on this face to the west of "Curse of the Drill". Any info?

BETA PHOTO: There is one bolt on this face to the west of "Cur...

There is a thin seam on this face to the right of "Pine Tree Crack". Climbed yet?

BETA PHOTO: There is a thin seam on this face to the right of ...

Mike L on Generation Gap.

Mike L on Generation Gap.

Flunky on Generation Gap

Flunky on Generation Gap

Exploration

Exploration

Chris McElroy finishing up the 5.7 dihedral

Chris McElroy finishing up the 5.7 dihedral


Comments on Hillbilly Hollow Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jun 28, 2012
By JJ Schlick
Administrator
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Sep 26, 2006

This area was discovered by Dave Groth due to an off chance comment by a hillbilly at DL. "I seen rocks like this before..." or some such thing. Dave and Bechler lead all the gear lines and then added the hard lines on the left in the mid 80s. If you have not been here before, the rock quality is mostly excellent and on par with that of the New Sandstone area at DL. A very cool little canyon that could use some modernizing.

By James23
From: Madison, WI
Sep 29, 2006

Regarding the name of the easy bolted route-- I don't know who set it, but the person that introduced me to climbing called it "Swiss Cheese"....Might not be commonly used though.....I Always had a certain affinity for it....Besides a couple trips to a gym, it was my first climb and then lead. Great site!

By James M Schroeder
From: Sauk County, WI
Oct 1, 2006

Swiss Cheese is good enough for me until I hear otherwise...

By Burt Lindquist
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Oct 2, 2006

Wasn't or isn't this area also referred to as "Pasamead Hollow" by a lot of climbers Wisconsin? Just thought I would throw that little tidbit in there. Also, I love the ole bit of Sconny climber lore associated with this place--- permanent residence for Tommy Duechtler (sp?) for quite some time if I remember right???

By Erik Olson
Nov 1, 2006

I have been climbing at the Hollow for many years now and have even put together a climbing guide to the area and many other areas, but stopped because I did not want to see some of my favorite climbing areas overrun. Many of these climbing areas in Wisconsin have unique ecological niches and some are even off limits due to endangered plant species. Also, many of these climbing areas are not suited for large amounts or even a minor increase in visitors to the area. When providing information on climbing areas please keep in mind the overall impact of providing the information.

By Peter Arndt
From: Baraboo, WI
May 24, 2008

Climbed for the first time at HH today. A real treat. climbed "Curse of the Drill" and "End of the Innocence". Ron, you and your crew did an oustanding job on the bolt placement.

I agree with James. INSTANT CLASSIC!!

By Balza7891
From: Appleton, WI
Aug 3, 2008

Hey I just wanted to say thanks to the guys who bolted both "Curse" and "End," both felt like solid lines for the beginning leader. I had a lot of fun out on them today, thanks.

By george reynolds
Feb 15, 2009

AS far as the rock quality goes I had a question about the lower faces on waht i think would be the north west face of the ridge (opposite end that the trail comes in with a fence near the rocks) is any of this good for bouldering?? most of it looked rather brittle and never cleaned. Is any of it solid???

By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
Apr 13, 2009

The long discussion about bolting at Hillbilly Hollow has been moved to the forum. You can find it here: Hillbilly Forum

If you have anything to add on this issue, please post it to the forum, not to this page.

By Dave Deming
From: Grand Junction CO
Jul 19, 2009

Has anyone climbed the thin crack to the right from what I think is Pine Tree Crack? No bolts, thin trad gear, directly across from Swiss Cheese. If anyone has, what would they rate it? Thanks.

By Daniel Max Christiansen
From: Torreón, Coahuila, Mexico
Jun 29, 2010

Tons of poison ivy on the approach and in the canyon!

By penrodjm
Mar 19, 2011

Went to Hillbilly today and apparently it is now closed. There were no trespassing signs posted all over the woods. Anybody have further info on this?

By Trad Nanny
Mar 19, 2011

Someone tried that trickery a few years ago. Hillbilly is state land. Probably DOT based on its proximity to the highway and rest stop.

By ccerling
From: Platteville, WI
Apr 5, 2011

If you're really concerned about access issues go to a public library somewhere in Marquette County and check out the Plat Maps in the reference section. They'll let you know without a doubt who owns that land. But also I'm with Nick Rhoads on this one. It's so close to the highway it almost has to be DOT land.

By Trad Nanny
Apr 24, 2011

According to the 2001 "Hunter's Guide to Public Hunting Grounds" this is definitely state land.

These are the approx GPS coordinates: 43.976009,-89.499961

By Juggler
May 31, 2011

To All Chicago Area Climbers:

I am looking for partners to go to WI climbing and other locations(Jackson Falls, DL, The Red, Grand Dads, etc) with.

I have an Airplane and can fly us there. Please send me a PM if you want more details and the cost of sharing the flight expenses. Hope to meet a few of you soon. I can fit up to 4 climbers with me in the Cherokee 6(with room for gear). I also have lodging available in a log cabin in the area :)

By Josh Olson
From: madison, wisconsin
Jun 11, 2011

So I have been hunting down new lines in the hollow in the last month, and tomorrow I plan on sending these bad oscars. While looking through the photos on mp for this area, I see that people have at least looked at these lines. Am I missing the local ethic of not posting these routes, or have others not been as inclined to post up?

By Trad Nanny
Jun 11, 2011

Josh, I probably took alot of the pics you are looking at and I haven't posted them cause I didn't climb them. Generally speaking don't post a route until you've climbed it. Exceptions being well established routes that just haven't been posted yet for whatever reason.

By Josh Olson
From: madison, wisconsin
Jun 12, 2011

Sounds good Nick. I don't plan on throwing routes up I haven't climbed, so that shouldn't be a problem.

By rcongo
From: Montpelier, VT
Jul 18, 2011

Looking for a partner to climb with here on July 28th or around there. Will be in the area. Not sure how busy this place gets. Just looking to get some good climbing in while I travel for work. I will return the favor if you are ever in VT/NH/NY or ME. ropegun.r # gmail.com

By ronn fieldhouse
Jun 28, 2012

I have been diagnosed with Lyme's disease. I may have contracted it at Hillbilly Hollow. I just want people to be careful. Wear hats and bug spray.