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Hillbilly Hollow

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Hillbilly Bouldering 
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Hillbilly Hollow 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 43.9771, -89.5005 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 86,583
Administrators: Chris treggE, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: James M Schroeder on Sep 22, 2006
Forecast:
You & This Area
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Kayte Knower starts Pagan Rituals. Photo Ron Long

Description 

Hillbilly Hollow is a nice little sandstone bluff hidden behind a wayside along highway 39/51 in central Wisconsin. It has also gone by the following names Pasamead (Psamead?) Hollow, Area 51 and Liberty Rocks. It is a quiet getaway sporting about a day's worth of climbing.

At "The Hollow" one will find both traditional and sport routes ranging in difficulty from 5.6 to 5.13a. Two ultra-classic routes, Zig-zag Crack (5.10a Trad/TR) and Swiss Cheese (5.8 Sport/TR) make Hillbilly Hollow worth a stop if you are in the area.

Please be quiet and respectful when climbing here.


Getting There 

To find the Wayside start out southbound on Highway 39/51 from the Highway 21 interchange or further north. (Note: if approaching from the south one has to drive 5 min. past the wayside exit at Highway 21 and return southbound -- or poach the turnaround immediately north of the wayside "for emergency vehicles only") The wayside is located at about mile marker 120 (approx. 7 miles north of Westfield exit 113). Once in the wayside locate the shelter/bathrooms. Walk around the shelter on the left (east) side and locate a trail into the woods approx. 50 ft southeast of the shelter. Follow this trail through the woods, and slightly uphill. Upon reaching the shoulder of the ridgeline (this will all be apparent at the time), continue left to follow the trail into the canyon and the base of the climbs - or go right to access the top of the routes.


Climbing Season


41 Total Routes


['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',15],['2 Stars',17],['1 Star',6],['Bomb',1]
['<=5.6',3],['5.7',7],['5.8',5],['5.9',4],['5.10',4],['5.11',2],['5.12',3],['5.13',1],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',2],['V2-3',6],['V4-5',4],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Hillbilly Hollow:
Cletus   V0 4     Boulder, 14'   Hillbilly Bouldering
Hillbilly Highball / Mosstown   V2- 5+ PG13     Boulder, 15'   Hillbilly Bouldering
Moonshine   V3 6A     Boulder, 1 pitch, 20'   Hillbilly Bouldering
Red Storm Rising   V4 6B     Boulder   Hillbilly Bouldering
5.6 dihedral   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 40'   Hillbilly Routes
Penitent Crack   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'   Hillbilly Routes
Left Side Dihedral (aka Corner Crack)   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50'   Hillbilly Routes
Two Hands of Prayer   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 40'   Hillbilly Routes
Curse of the Drill   5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Sport, 1 pitch, 55'   Hillbilly Routes
End of the Innocence   5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Sport, 1 pitch, 55'   Hillbilly Routes
Swiss Cheese   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 40'   Hillbilly Routes
Pine Tree Crack   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 40'   Hillbilly Routes
End of the Innocence variation   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 55'   Hillbilly Routes
Sunset Ascent   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   Hillbilly Routes
PWB Arete   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport   Hillbilly Routes
Zig-zag crack   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 40'   Hillbilly Routes
Sex Weed   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 40'   Hillbilly Routes
Manic Depression   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport   Hillbilly Routes
Pagan Rituals   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 40'   Hillbilly Routes
Generation Gap   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport   Hillbilly Routes
Browse More Classics in Hillbilly Hollow

Featured Route For Hillbilly Hollow
David at the start of Sex Muscle

Sex Muscle V4 6B  WI : Hillbilly Hollow : Hillbilly Bouldering
Start with matching hands and good feet and slap your way up the overhang. Not very many moves but it flows well. Set your feet and finish out on the top right corner....[more]   Browse More Classics in WI

Photos of Hillbilly Hollow Slideshow Add Photo
A strong opinion
A strong opinion
This is a topo for the area. If I have made any errors, please let me know.
BETA PHOTO: This is a topo for the area. If I have made any er...
Chris McElroy finishing up the 5.7 dihedral
Chris McElroy finishing up the 5.7 dihedral
Overhanging dihedral on the backside of the PWB Block.
BETA PHOTO: Overhanging dihedral on the backside of the PWB Bl...
better shot of lower section of first climb
BETA PHOTO: better shot of lower section of first climb
second face on your way in.  Large face of moderate to easy climbs, easy set ups on top.
second face on your way in. Large face of moderat...
There is a thin seam on this face to the right of "Pine Tree Crack". Climbed yet?
BETA PHOTO: There is a thin seam on this face to the right of ...
third face as you walk in <br />short, one bolt climb <br />Rating: unkown 5.11??  <br />Name: unknown
BETA PHOTO: third face as you walk in
short, one bolt climb
Ra...
Top half of crack on backside of PWB Block.
BETA PHOTO: Top half of crack on backside of PWB Block.
Short face block on outside of hollow <br />crack is a 5.8 face is a bit harder a ten maybe?
BETA PHOTO: Short face block on outside of hollow
crack is a 5...
Another potential BP in the south talus. Around the corner to the right of this is the awesome looking overhanging arete problem I posted a pic of earlier.
BETA PHOTO: Another potential BP in the south talus. Around th...
<a href='http://www.dot.wisconsin.gov/travel/restareas/ra81.htm' target='_blank' rel='nofollow' >www.dot.wisconsin.gov/travel/restareas/ra81.htm</a>
first face climb as you walk in (behind tree)  <br />protected lead, bit dirty <br />rating: unknown <br />Name: unknown
BETA PHOTO: first face climb as you walk in (behind tree)
pro...
inside the hollow
inside the hollow
5.2 access climb it top of hollow rock.
5.2 access climb it top of hollow rock.
This is found on the backside of the PWB Block. Climbed yet?
BETA PHOTO: This is found on the backside of the PWB Block. Cl...
Objective hazard: The Dreaded Wood Tick
BETA PHOTO: Objective hazard: The Dreaded Wood Tick
Nice slab boulder in the south talus field.
BETA PHOTO: Nice slab boulder in the south talus field.
Techni-color awesomeness
Techni-color awesomeness
SW face of PWB Block. Climbed yet?
BETA PHOTO: SW face of PWB Block. Climbed yet?
Surreal
Surreal
There is one bolt on this face to the west of "Curse of the Drill". Any info?
BETA PHOTO: There is one bolt on this face to the west of "Cur...
Flunky on Generation Gap
Flunky on Generation Gap
Mike L on Generation Gap.
Mike L on Generation Gap.
This is the new revised route map for the area.
BETA PHOTO: This is the new revised route map for the area.
Exploration
Exploration
Little cave BP in talus south of Zig-Zag Wall.
BETA PHOTO: Little cave BP in talus south of Zig-Zag Wall.
"Sunset Ascent"  Four bolt route left around arete from Pine Tree Crack. It ends at the sling belay atop Pine Tree. Safe, 5.8 or 5.9ish, in the range of Pine Tree and PWB Arete. Please submit rating and quality feedback.
BETA PHOTO: "Sunset Ascent" Four bolt route left around arete...
Comments on Hillbilly Hollow Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Sep 27, 2013
By JJ Schlick
Administrator
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Sep 26, 2006

This area was discovered by Dave Groth due to an off chance comment by a hillbilly at DL. "I seen rocks like this before..." or some such thing. Dave and Bechler lead all the gear lines and then added the hard lines on the left in the mid 80s. If you have not been here before, the rock quality is mostly excellent and on par with that of the New Sandstone area at DL. A very cool little canyon that could use some modernizing.

By James23
From: Madison, WI
Sep 29, 2006

Regarding the name of the easy bolted route-- I don't know who set it, but the person that introduced me to climbing called it "Swiss Cheese"....Might not be commonly used though.....I Always had a certain affinity for it....Besides a couple trips to a gym, it was my first climb and then lead. Great site!

By James M Schroeder
From: Sauk County, WI
Oct 1, 2006

Swiss Cheese is good enough for me until I hear otherwise...

By Burt Lindquist
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Oct 2, 2006

Wasn't or isn't this area also referred to as "Pasamead Hollow" by a lot of climbers Wisconsin? Just thought I would throw that little tidbit in there. Also, I love the ole bit of Sconny climber lore associated with this place--- permanent residence for Tommy Duechtler (sp?) for quite some time if I remember right???

By Erik Olson
Nov 1, 2006

I have been climbing at the Hollow for many years now and have even put together a climbing guide to the area and many other areas, but stopped because I did not want to see some of my favorite climbing areas overrun. Many of these climbing areas in Wisconsin have unique ecological niches and some are even off limits due to endangered plant species. Also, many of these climbing areas are not suited for large amounts or even a minor increase in visitors to the area. When providing information on climbing areas please keep in mind the overall impact of providing the information.

By Peter Arndt
May 24, 2008

Climbed for the first time at HH today. A real treat. climbed "Curse of the Drill" and "End of the Innocence". Ron, you and your crew did an oustanding job on the bolt placement.

I agree with James. INSTANT CLASSIC!!

By Balza7891
From: Appleton, WI
Aug 3, 2008

Hey I just wanted to say thanks to the guys who bolted both "Curse" and "End," both felt like solid lines for the beginning leader. I had a lot of fun out on them today, thanks.

By george reynolds
Feb 15, 2009

AS far as the rock quality goes I had a question about the lower faces on waht i think would be the north west face of the ridge (opposite end that the trail comes in with a fence near the rocks) is any of this good for bouldering?? most of it looked rather brittle and never cleaned. Is any of it solid???

By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Campton, NH
Apr 13, 2009

The long discussion about bolting at Hillbilly Hollow has been moved to the forum. You can find it here: Hillbilly Forum

If you have anything to add on this issue, please post it to the forum, not to this page.

By Dave Deming
From: Grand Junction CO
Jul 19, 2009

Has anyone climbed the thin crack to the right from what I think is Pine Tree Crack? No bolts, thin trad gear, directly across from Swiss Cheese. If anyone has, what would they rate it? Thanks.

By Daniel Max Christiansen
From: Green Bay, WI
Jun 29, 2010

Tons of poison ivy on the approach and in the canyon!

By penrodjm
Mar 19, 2011

Went to Hillbilly today and apparently it is now closed. There were no trespassing signs posted all over the woods. Anybody have further info on this?

By Tradoholic
Mar 19, 2011

Someone tried that trickery a few years ago. Hillbilly is state land. Probably DOT based on its proximity to the highway and rest stop.

By ccerling
From: Boston, MA
Apr 5, 2011

If you're really concerned about access issues go to a public library somewhere in Marquette County and check out the Plat Maps in the reference section. They'll let you know without a doubt who owns that land. But also I'm with Nick Rhoads on this one. It's so close to the highway it almost has to be DOT land.

By Tradoholic
Apr 24, 2011

According to the 2001 "Hunter's Guide to Public Hunting Grounds" this is definitely state land.

These are the approx GPS coordinates: 43.976009,-89.499961

By Juggler
May 31, 2011

To All Chicago Area Climbers:

I am looking for partners to go to WI climbing and other locations(Jackson Falls, DL, The Red, Grand Dads, etc) with.

I have an Airplane and can fly us there. Please send me a PM if you want more details and the cost of sharing the flight expenses. Hope to meet a few of you soon. I can fit up to 4 climbers with me in the Cherokee 6(with room for gear). I also have lodging available in a log cabin in the area :)

By Josh Olson
From: madison, wisconsin
Jun 11, 2011

So I have been hunting down new lines in the hollow in the last month, and tomorrow I plan on sending these bad oscars. While looking through the photos on mp for this area, I see that people have at least looked at these lines. Am I missing the local ethic of not posting these routes, or have others not been as inclined to post up?

By Tradoholic
Jun 11, 2011

Josh, I probably took alot of the pics you are looking at and I haven't posted them cause I didn't climb them. Generally speaking don't post a route until you've climbed it. Exceptions being well established routes that just haven't been posted yet for whatever reason.

By Josh Olson
From: madison, wisconsin
Jun 12, 2011

Sounds good Nick. I don't plan on throwing routes up I haven't climbed, so that shouldn't be a problem.

By rcongo
From: Montpelier, VT
Jul 18, 2011

Looking for a partner to climb with here on July 28th or around there. Will be in the area. Not sure how busy this place gets. Just looking to get some good climbing in while I travel for work. I will return the favor if you are ever in VT/NH/NY or ME. ropegun.r # gmail.com

By ronn fieldhouse
Jun 28, 2012

I have been diagnosed with Lyme's disease. I may have contracted it at Hillbilly Hollow. I just want people to be careful. Wear hats and bug spray.

By Mike Minehart
From: Waupaca, WI
Sep 6, 2013

This is a new four bolt route just left around the arete from Pine Tree Crack. We need comments to develop a rating. Its similar to PWB Arete or Pine Tree Crack, 5.8 or 5.9 ish.  Please try it and submit feedback
This is a new four bolt route just left around the arete from Pine Tree Crack. We need comments to develop a rating. Its similar to PWB Arete or Pine Tree Crack, 5.8 or 5.9 ish. Please try it and submit feedback

Sunset Ascent
This is a new sport bolted route left,around arete from Pine Tree Crack. Pine tree is rated 5.8, PWB Arete is listed as 5.9. Its in this range. I think its harder than PWB but EASIER than Pine Tree, so what does that say? Please do it and submit feedback to develop a consensus rating. Its safe and ends at the sling belay above Pine Tree.

By Mike Minehart
From: Waupaca, WI
Sep 6, 2013

Statement of Responsibility: I am taking responsibility for what I consider improving the anchor chains at the top midway between PWB Arete and Pine Tree Crack. It was previously one chain connected to two bolts/hangers. We cut the middle so now there are two independent chain/bolt anchors to thread via a single open link at the end of each. Safer, and easier to thread your rope thru the open links. Comments can be directed to myself for any criticism. mwminehart@gmail.com

By Mike Minehart
From: Waupaca, WI
Sep 6, 2013

Another Statement of responsibility: I have added a lower first bolt to Swiss Cheese. The Hollow has primarily safe enjoyable sport routes, but this route had a potentially bad fall before the first bolt. It is otherwise a great route enjoyed by many who either are able to boulder up the unprotected first bolt, toprope it, or stick clip it. I just want more people to have safe access. I will hear your criticisms/feedback if you care to share. If you must chop that bolt, I will not argue, but I'm sure there are many who would like to do it with reasonable safety. For the most part the bolted climbs at the Hollow are not hero climbs. I took this into consideration when adding this bolt. Email me your feedback: mwminehart@gmail.com

Mike Minehart

By Josh Olson
From: madison, wisconsin
Sep 7, 2013

Swiss Cheese did NOT need any more bolts.

By James M Schroeder
From: Sauk County, WI
Sep 8, 2013

Mike,

While a 50 foot 5.8 sport route is hardly anything to get upset about, I think you may have overstepped a little here. The lowest bolt on Swiss Cheese was easily "stick-clippable" and did not need to be supplemented. I was psyched to see your work across the canyon, but bummed to see this.

Ultimately I'm glad you were honest about it, and took responsibility here. I do wish you'd have started a conversation about it here first and tried to at least get a consensus instead of acting unilaterally. I don't think you'd have gotten much support, but maybe I'm wrong.

Anyway, as a general rule, existing routes should not be modified without the permission of the first ascensionist, or if that person isn't available at least a consensus within the community. The bolt can be chopped, but the hole cannot be un-drilled.

Your argument about safety holds no water. First, even if the route wasn't "safe" there is no reason to make every route safe - leave some adventure. Second, the route was perfectly safe, and a stick clip could easily have saved a bolt here.

Just my two cents.

James

By James M Schroeder
From: Sauk County, WI
Sep 8, 2013

Mike,

Upon further review, now that I see where the bolts are on your other line I'm not psyched. Totally within reach of the crack. I can see good trad gear next to both of the bolts I can see. Ease up on the drill guy.

James

By Josh Olson
From: madison, wisconsin
Sep 8, 2013

Not to mention that crack has been led dozens of times on gear.

By Tradoholic
Sep 9, 2013

FINALLY a little controversy back in WI! Bolting is lame, chopping is lame. My advice: Man up and PUKE!

By Langlois
From: NYC
Sep 9, 2013

I also wish you would have started a conversation here before taking this irreversible action. My guess is community consensus would have been overwhelmingly against the alteration of either of these climbs. In my opinion Swiss Cheese was a perfectly safe climb and I fail to see how adding an additional bolt helps anything. Additionally the person who bolted this route is extremely safety conscious and felt there was no need for a lower bolt. As for the other route, if is has been led on gear no hole should have ever been drilled.

By jon jugenheimer
From: Madison
Sep 11, 2013

1. I cliped the new first bolt on Swiss cheese today. Guess now I just don't need to find a stick on the ground. I am fine with the addition of the bolt. It makes for less of a run out to the old first bolt without the need to stick clip. Thanks for your 12 bucks or whatever a bolt costs to save me 3 minutes.

2. Climbed the new bolted route on TR. Thought it was in the 10's. Harder than the climb on the left side of that same wall. Yes, there is gear to be found by the first two bolts, but not the top two bolts to get to the tree anchor. I personally am not much of a fan of mixed routes. Either bolts or gear, no need for both on a 30' route. With a little more scrubbing, a fun route.

3. I believe that there is room for more routes at this crag.

By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Campton, NH
Sep 21, 2013

Another bolt on Swiss Cheese? That route stood the way it was for over 15 years. I'm not a fan of adding bolts to existing climbs (or subtracting bolts from climbs, for that matter) without the blessing of the FAist, or without the consensus of the local community. I'd be concerned that this recent situation on Swiss Cheese might begin a dangerous precedent of subsequent climbers altering routes to their liking.

By James M Schroeder
From: Sauk County, WI
Sep 22, 2013

Mike,

On yet further review (in person this time)-- I think the new route is good, and the bolts are legit, so I apologize about bagging on you for it. I also clipped the new bolt on Swiss Cheese, and don't think it was needed, but I'd be strongly against anyone chopping it because I think no good can come from starting that trend either.

I'd call your new route 10a, it definitely felt harder than PWB. Totally different climbing than PWB too, steeper and more slopey. I liked it, thanks for putting it up. Give it a name and post it up. I finished it up to the chains at the top of the face, a .5 or .75 Camalot would protect the run-out real well if one were so inclined.

Cheers,
James

By John W. Knoernschild
From: Wisconsin
Sep 23, 2013

The new bolt of swiss cheese is fine. No biggy. Plus the new route is really good. Nice work.

By Mike Minehart
From: Waupaca, WI
Sep 24, 2013

Thank you all for your comments both on the new route left of Pine Tree Crack... now named "Sunset Ascent" and on the Swiss Cheese added bolt. Would like more feedback on rating the new route. As for the "bolting controversy" on Swiss Cheese, I agree with the suggestion that I could have asked for comments on here first. The first ascent owner is not listed here for consultation, but that doesn't mean I couldn't have found him/her with a little research. I apologize for the urgency I displayed. On the route description it is essentially described as a stick clip start. I never understood the rationale for designing a route in such a way when bolts are cheap and the standard here is generally pretty safe. When climbing there I have heard nothing but criticisms of this start, which is why I placed it, but nonetheless, I could have sought comments first. For those of you with jobs, children, responsibilities for others, and otherwise small huevos, enjoy the new bolt (I do NOT exclude myself from this group).

By Mr. Mix
From: Sauk City, WI
Sep 24, 2013

Since new bolts are being added and the community requests discussion before action...what are thoughts on a couple extra bolts on Turkish Revenge and Booze Pigs?

By Remo
From: Madison, WI
Sep 25, 2013

Hey Mike, I've had many discussions with Dave Groth about retro-bolting some of those routes and he is all for it.

By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Sep 25, 2013

Has anyone in the last 10 years done either of the routes mentioned?

By Langlois
From: NYC
Sep 25, 2013

Nope! I definitely jumped the gun on the new route (sorry) as I thought it could be led. Appears to be a nice new addition. However, I do still feel that community consensus is always a good policy especially when access can be an issue (not saying it is here). As for swiss, it's hard to argue against safety. I am still not sure another bolt was needed but if people are for it and it encourages more people to get on it then it will be a nice addition.

By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Sep 25, 2013

Sorry, I meant has anyone done Booze Pigs or Turkish Revenge in the past 10 years?

By Dobbe
Sep 25, 2013

I did booze big maybe 7-10 years ago. It could use some bolts up top from what I remember. I don't remember Turkish Revenge needing any bolts but that might be because the start is super hard and I don't think we got far.

By David Meyer
From: Out Yonder West
Sep 27, 2013

I was TRing Booze Pigs not too long ago and definitely noticed that it and Turkish Revenge would benefit from retrobolting. With hard climbing on sketchy bolts and big runouts I'm not too eager to try to lead either.