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Hijinx in the Desert 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 1,326
Submitted By: Darren Mabe on Sep 29, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (15)
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Chris Trudeau 11.9.08

Description 

Just plain awesome. Hijinx is an apparently overlooked line just left of Dusty Trails. This is possibly due to Bloom's description as "fingers to thin hands in right facing offset". Well, he didnt mention a small roof to pull around as you are changing corners.

Begin from a small shelf at the base with wide fingers (#1 FR and #.5 Cam) to a few ringlocks (#.75 Cam). good hands lead to tight hands (#1 Cams)in the right facing corner (a few good rests), leading up to the roof. Pull around on good hands (#2Cam) into a tight left facing V-Slot corner with tight hands (SlotMachine-esque). I thought this was the crux, although I actually chimneyed/kneebarred the V-Slot for the final 20 feet leading to the anchors past the wide ringlocks(more #75s).

Location 

about 30 feet left of Dusty Trails. You will see the obvious V-Slot corner at the top after the roof.

Protection 

something like:
(1) #.4 Cam
(1) #.5 Cam
(4) #.75 Cams
(5) #1 Cams
(3) #2 Cams


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By Tavis Ricksecker
From: Bishop, ca
Apr 14, 2009

Wow.. The guidebook calls this 11- now.. What a sandbag! The move around the lip of the roof seemed way harder than anything on any 11- anywhere, crazy knee bar beta and whatnot. Anyone know where to find the route "1. Unnamed 5.12 Hands out a roof to off fingers in a left facing corner"? A description that also fits Hijinx. Hmmm... We only found one route that fit that description. What gives?
By claramie
From: Boulder, CO
Nov 9, 2009

agree. this roof is really tricky. no way it is 11-. I saw the potential knee bar after I blew it but still didn't use it. hiked my feet in the overhanging crack and just wrenched down on the jams above the roof. tough to grade due to the trickery but harder than 11-
By carl bullock
Nov 18, 2009

yup. hard! odd roof for the creek. worthy!
By D-Storm
Apr 6, 2010

The route pictured very well might not be Hijinx. Hijinx might start about 20 feet left. I didn't get a chance to climb the routes on this side, but I scoped them at the end of the day. In the blank-looking section of the photo there is in fact a right leaning, right-facing offset finger crack, of which I stood at the base, and it looks like there are good foot holds spaced along it. I didn't actually bother to spot anchors at the top, assuming they were at the ledge 60 feet up, but the crack looked like great 5.11- climbing. Maybe that's the true Hijinx? After looking closer at the photo, however, I still don't see anchors there.
By Devin Fin
From: DURANGO
Oct 5, 2012

Hijinx has lost some parts over the last ten years.. yes this is the proper route an photo.. the roof was perfect hands over the lip with a foot out left... foot hold is gone the lip of the roof is mangled and piss hard now, looks real broke .. climbed it 10/4/12 an got the un send. an i killed that thing post Blooms book 99 wen i was fat with a small rack an sack!!!!! great climb thoe ..
By Mike Rowley
From: Boise, Idaho
Nov 8, 2012

There is no way this thing is 11-. I would say 11+ seems like a decent rating. Makes sense if some stuff broke off it. Took a good whipper trying to pull the roof section. BURLY!
By Brandon Gottung
From: Moab, UT
Apr 20, 2013
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a

Tore some rotator cuff soft-tissue onsighting this thing. The moves at the lip are super tricky, got worked figuring 'em out, wrenched on the jams to pull the lip and pop pop pop went my shoulder, sunk a #1 at my hips (barely) and went to the anchor. Once back on the ground, I realized how tweaked my shoulder was. Great route, crazy roof pull, but it cost me a season of climbing. Bring a couple .75s for the flare after the roof.
By Aaron Livingston
From: Moab, UT
May 12, 2014
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

ULTIMATE SANDBAG, awesome route but don't believe any beta from blooms book. the camalot rack would be something like this. (1).5, (4-5).75 (a black metolius would be great after the roof), (5)1.0, (2)2.0. I hopped on sig saur after this just to confirm how I felt about the 12- grade and this route felt significantly harder than sig. Not a good warm-up for the day haha.