Highway to Hell 5.8 PG13
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 120 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.8 [details] |
| FA: | modern ascent: Kisiel, Beguin, and Newell, this might have been climbed by some unknown hippie climber from the 60's |
| Submitted By: | Scott Beguin on Feb 3, 2008 |
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The Golden Boy riding the Highway to Hell.
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Description This is a spooky and thought provoking crack-dihedral where pro is placed in the crack and most of the climbing is done on face edges. It is an exercise in keeping a cool head and treading lightly. It is a paved highway that if you continue down it you might end up in Hell where the rock is really big, scary , and loose. Entertaining never the less. Thanks to Post Moderate and other long stellar sport routes on this wall, Highway To Hell does not get much traffic, so watch out for loose rock. This is Diablo and The Winter Wall at that. Nuff' said.
Location This is the obvious dihedral to the right of Post Moderate.
Protection Stoppers, Aliens, Camalots to #3, and trad runners. 2 bolt rap anchor. Get off with two 60 meter ropes [or 1 70m rope].
| Comments on Highway to Hell |
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By Scott Beguin
Feb 3, 2008
| Marc Beverly's book states that this line was done in the 60's. Will the real first ascensionist step up, if you exist. |
By Jason Halladay
Administrator
From: Los Alamos, NM
Mar 27, 2010
| You can use a single 70m rope on this route with just a couple feet of rope to spare. Tie knots in the ends for sure. This works out nice if you'd prefer to lead Hell Boy past the first anchors and use the anchors on this route. Of course, the best rock on Hell Boy is the upper ~40 feet above these anchors but this option requires only one rope. |
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