Highway 61 5.13a
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| Type: | Trad, 4 pitches, 400 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.13- [details] |
| FA: | Tim Kemple Jr and Tim Kemple Sr |
| Submitted By: | bayard russell jr on May 14, 2010 |
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Description A full length route free climbing most of Mines' first pitch and joining Mines' second pitch near its top. The 5.11 corner third pitch is supposed to be really good. They finished on The Bridge.
p.1 Start up Mines and take a left at the end of the flake, past a bolt and a hard exit move protected by small gear. Belay at bolt anchor above. A compact pitch with incredible climbing, powerful. 5.12d ish?
p.2 Straight up off the belay, follow some bolts/heads right until below an obtuse corner, that becomes distinct. Straight up from here, stepping left onto a good stance afer the crux and a random two bolt anchor. Finish up the crack/seam to a bolted belay on a great ledge 25' above the lip. Was a bit crumbly but has cleaned up beautifully, great pitch. 5.13a.
p.3 Follow the corner system to the belay on the Bridge 5.11.
Location Above the big ash tree 50' left of where the Pendulum tree's remains lay.
Protection Decent but not always great. After the first pitch crux it can feel necky, but small gear comes quickly. The second pitch crux is protected by small fixed bashies.
By nhclimber
From: Newmarket, NH
May 14, 2010
| The second pitch that Bayard describes is the unknown A4 pitch I posted. I think Tim and John Branscom freed the pitch? |
By bayard russell jr
From: Madison, NH
May 5, 2011
| 5.12+/5.13 a or b, somewhere in there... I find it tricky to grade this kind of beta intensive climbing.
Last summer I tore my groin doing the rock over move on the second pitch and couldn't walk for almost two weeks! Felt like I pretty much had it in the bag too..
This is a really good route. |
By jason conway
May 7, 2011
| I would say 13a r. R rated because it is clearly dangerous. Bayard really f'ed himself up on this. A groin pull is a real possibility! The mental stamina required to focus on hard moves while potentially hurting yourself makes a send of this route a rare occurrence. |
By Freddie Wilkinson
May 7, 2011
| I'd describe the climbing on the first two pitches as a series of sustained hard 5.12 granite boulder problems, with some reasonable 5.10 rests in between. The climbing is continuously heady, but rarely truly dangerous. A classic of the modern trad idiom. |
By bayard russell jr
From: Madison, NH
Mar 31, 2012
| Just changed the grade to 13a, that seems to be the consensus. Sorry, didn't realize that the grade given originally stuck, I thought it averaged out. |
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