|Type:||Trad, 11 pitches, 1600', Grade IV|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]|
|FA:||Ed Webster & Bryan Becker, 1979|
|Submitted By:||eDixon on May 17, 2011|
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|Comments on Highway 61 Revisited||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By Andy F
From: Fort Collins, CO
May 19, 2011
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
|This route was awesome! Eric and I thought it deserved to be posted on Mnt project, so it might get more traffic.. the second pitch is kinda a pile, but if you have climbed Journey Home and/or Scenic Cruise, you will love this route. DO IT!!!|
From: Durango, Colorado
Jun 6, 2011
|There is bird shit on P5, but it's not the hardest climbing and protects well. The crux is shit-free. Found the ear on P4 to be more strenuous, it's kinda wide. Linking this into Journey Home was a super Black day of 5.10.|
By Rob DeZonia
Sep 2, 2011
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
|Combine this with Journey Home and you get a route that only the Black can deliver. There is a serious amount of 5.10 climbing on the second ear. What a satisfying outing. The two routes combined created a 4 star outing for my brother and me. Pulling out of the second ear had one move that felt more like 5.11 to me. There was a big move from a jug undercling that is a little height dependent. There wasn't any slippery poop when we climbed it like 5 years ago. I would love to climb this again.|
By Jim Donini
May 26, 2012
This climb is classic. With a little more traffic and a teeny bit of bird shit removal from the second ear, it would get a four star rating.
Seven pitches of continuous 9+/10 climbing with the second ear coming in at 11-, a little more continuous than the Scenic Cruise but not quite as classic- but close!
Don't forget to move left before you get too high on the second ear - consider this 11- and you won't be surprised.
Don't let the appearance at the start put you off, it cleans up quickly. By the way, the topo is wrong - the start is in a left-facing, not a right-facing, corner.
Did not use a #5 Camalot until the 5.9 OW on the Journey Home, the First Ear protects with a #4. You don't need two green Aliens, any smaller stuff will do.
Jun 21, 2012
|Kick ass classic climb. Sustained 5.10 climbing. Hrdly noticable bird shit as of May 27, 2012. Obvious route finding. Standard rack plus (1) #4 and #5.|
By Guy H.
From: Fort Collins CO
Sep 19, 2013
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
|The bird shit is about a 3 out 10 on the crap-o-meter on P5. Nothing to be concerned with. I thought this route was more sustained and physical than Scenic Cruise! The ear on P4 is slightly committing but easier than it looks. A #5 halfway out the ear will calm the nerves. P2 is probably closer to 5.8-9 and 215 ft long. I ended up doing some harder moves with 30 ft runouts to avoid the bad rock. We didn't place any RPs, but a couple small TCUs did get used.|
By Steve Levin
From: Boulder, CO
Dec 7, 2013
|When I first did this (early-'90s), the 2nd ear was waaaaay filled with bird crap and dead birds and even live birds slithering away from my finger tips as I jammed through. Glad to hear it's cleaner now.|