Highly Wired  5.10c R

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Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 220 feet Consensus:  5.10c [details] FA:  Stegg et. al. Season:  Cool Submitted By:  andjoely on Feb 22, 2011 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Description 

An excellent old school feeling route that doesn't see a lot of traffic due to poorly protected climbing on p1.

P1: climb shallow corner with manky tree slung for pro for the committing crux move then continue up intimidating dirty 5.8 "free solo" terrain to a ledge. Continue up fantastic overhanging left facing crack / groove to gear anchor with some fixed pieces (100 feet?)
P2: Traverse way left staying kind of low with sparse pro and continue up face to huge right angling, right facing corner. Belay on ledge above corner. note: this pitch can be somewhat runout for leader and follower
P3: Pick cool looking path to top, wandering if you want to make it easier or better protected.

Location 

Start: maybe 50 feet right of punk wave at the 2nd shallow seam / corner system. There is some fallen trees at the start

Protection 

Doubles of cams to #2, one #3 nuts, tricams lots of long slings