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Highlight 

YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 5 pitches, 600', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: W Britschgi
Page Views: 68
Submitted By: Colin Winter on Jun 1, 2011

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The traversing pitch of Abendrot, from the anchor ...

Off limits in winter and spring MORE INFO >>>

Description 

A varied route of fairly consistent difficulty, punctuated by a large roof in the 4th pitch that is overcome with the help of a few artificial holds.

1 SL 6b+ somewhat awkward in the lower section, ascending a series of large, downward-sloping slates of rock (like giant shingles on a rooftop), followed by steeper, more straightforward and standard fare terrain.
2 SL 6a straightforward, steep, jug-pulling from start to finish… fantastic
3 SL 6c a distinct crux right off the anchor, working up a large, overhanging crack. The intensity subsides a bit after those first athletic meters, but the climbing remains very interesting and becomes much more fingery as the route proceeds up highly compact, near vertical terrain that is saturated with superb if at times small water pockets and inserts.
4 SL 6b+ a unique, athletic pitch, defined by a large roof that is climbed with the help of a few artificial holds. The climbing before and after the roof is fairly straightforward but also steep and demanding.
5 SL 6c brilliant sustained face climbing on vertical, compact, very sharp rock.


NB – from the 4th pitch, above the roof and to the right, there is an anchor that is used for climbing Abendrot, a single-pitch 5c+ traverse that connects Highlight with a neighboring route to the right, the Dachroute. In this fashion, the last two pitches of the Dachroute can be accessed (otherwise when approached from below necessitates a pitch of aid climbing). The last two pitches of the Dachroute are short, go at 6b+ and 7a, respectively, and are well worth a visit.


Location 

The route is in the "Dach" sector of Ofen, which is to the left (west) of the somewhat longer main wall. Use the monster roof in the middle of the wall as orientation to find the right general area to search for the start (the route runs left of the roof, and to the right of the Vogel route). The beginning of the route is marked in yellow.

Descend by abseilpiste from the top of the route (double ropes required).

Protection 

Perfectly bolted from start to finish


Photos of Highlight Slideshow Add Photo
The steep jug-fest on pitch two of Highlight.
The steep jug-fest on pitch two of Highlight.
Looking back on the big roof of pitch four.
Looking back on the big roof of pitch four.
On the upper pitches of the Dachroute, accessed vi...
On the upper pitches of the Dachroute, accessed vi...

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