This route follows the face on the right side of the southwest arete in two short pitches, ending at the anchor for Tiptonís Arete. Can also be done in one continuous pitch. Rappel in two pitches to descend the south face or one pitch to descend the west face.
P1: Start in the broken dark rock on the left side of the face. Using a variety of crack and face technique, work through the blocks and cracks to a nice ledge with a two bolt anchor. (5.7) 5 bolts, 50í
P2: Head up and right to a shallow dihedral. Continue up the dihedral on small edges and smears. A second similar dihedral leads to a large ledge with a two bolt anchor. This is the anchor for Tiptonís Arete, visible from the west face and accessible from the right-slanting ramp that starts at the base of the west face. (5.7) 5 bolts, 70í
Left side of the south face, just right of the arete.
10 bolts, bolted anchors
Rapping the second pitch of Highlander.
|By Dave Daly|
From: Del Mar, CA
May 8, 2011
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
2 pitches?? Really??
You can do this route by scrambling up 4th class rock to a decent blocky ledge then climb to the anchors. 60m rope CAN lower you off. Heck, Bagpipes and Ale is the longer of the two routes and the better quality route as well,
Hey, Eric (Tipton).....is Neil Young your favorite dood?
|By Bill Olszewski|
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Jun 7, 2011
2 pitches, as listed in Brad's first edition of Hidden Treasures (out of print). This suggests the FA was done in 2 pitches and therefore the route was submitted to MP as 2 pitches. Yes, as I said, a 60m will reach the ground on the west face. The double rap refers to rapping down the south face.