Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Highest Graded Trad On-sight
View Latest Posts in This Forum or All Forums
   Page 1 of 2.  1  2   Next>   Last>>
Follow replies to this topic? Notify me at the top of web site.
1

Email me.
 
By Jason Himick
From Boulder, CO
Dec 16, 2007
Future Goal

The recent thread about a 5.14c on-sight made me wonder what the highest graded trad on-sight is. I'm using the distinction of highest graded vs most difficult to avoid the argument, but I suppose I'm interested in both answers. While we're at it... who do you think the greatest on-sight trad climber was/is?


FLAG
By Kevin Stricker
From Evergreen, CO
Dec 17, 2007

Yuji Hirayama has onsighted Sphinx Crack at 13b trad. He has onsighted several big routes in Yosemite as well: Quantum Mechanic, The Crucifix, and almost onsighted Golden Gate on El Cap.

Although not the highest grade, Leo Holding's onsight of Southern Bell on Half Dome (5.12+ X) is equally impressive to me. (edit:I was misinformed on Southern Belle, he freed it on his second attempt)


FLAG
By caughtinside
From Oakland CA
Dec 17, 2007

Beth Rodden onsighted the Phoenix... .13b?

EDIT: it's in MP at .13a.


FLAG
By Healyje
Dec 17, 2007
girl40

Onsights are interesting, but if we're talking trad, the real deal is onsight FA's. They don't happen everyday, but are one of the more rewarding and notable experiences you can have climbing.


FLAG
By tenesmus
Dec 17, 2007

I've done a few of those at easier grades and they ARE really fun! it seems like ground up trad fa without preview would be the most proud. Hats off to those who have done it.


FLAG
By Tom Hanson
Dec 17, 2007
Climber Drawing

I agree with Healyje.
My most memorable leads are the ones where I've established a new route, on-sight, trad.
A line done this way is an adventure and not merely a workout.


FLAG
By YDPL8S
From Santa Monica, Ca.
Dec 17, 2007
Korea 1 1975

Take a look at what Henry Barber did in his world travels to new areas, when he was in his prime. He might not have the single hardest grade for a FA onsight, but he probably put up more extreme FA onsights in a 4 or 5 yr period than anyone else I've ever heard of. I've read many accounts about how he would blow into an area and in a weeks time, raise the level of climbing in that area, sometimes 2 full grades! - many of them free-solos's!


FLAG
By Mike Anderson
From Dayton, OH
Dec 17, 2007

Kevin Stricker wrote:
Although not the highest grade, Leo Holding's onsight of Southern Bell on Half Dome (5.12+ X) is equally impressive to me.


Really? Can you provide more details? This doesn't mention anything about that:

www.climbing.com/news/hotflashes/southernbelle/

Perhaps you're thinking of Freerider, where he came within one fall of the flash.

I think OS FA's are cool, but there is value to every style. The bummer about on-sights is that the experience is so short, and you only do each move once. A route you work has a lot more drawn out experience with highs and lows, and you really develop a bond with the route. That's one nice thing about doing long routes...even if you do on-sight it, the experience will last longer than just a few minutes, maybe even a couple days.


FLAG
By Mic Fairchild
From Boulder
Jan 7, 2008
kickin' on Broadway

Gotta think that on-sight would be the ultimate consideration. But, take the next step and ask "what are the difficult routes on-sight free soloed"? That's rarified air. Add in first ascent as well, and you're into a philosophical stratosphere: Robbins-style idealism and Erickson-like execution.

It was always my hope to somehow grasp a little of that experience, high above the clouds. Despite lagging tendons, my temperament has allowed me to try.


FLAG
By Mike Mu.
Jan 9, 2008
The Nose from the road

Scott M. Mossman wrote:
Take a look at what Henry Barber did in his world travels to new areas, when he was in his prime. He might not have the single hardest grade for a FA onsight, but he probably put up more extreme FA onsights in a 4 or 5 yr period than anyone else I've ever heard of. I've read many accounts about how he would blow into an area and in a weeks time, raise the level of climbing in that area, sometimes 2 full grades! - many of them free-solos's!

Henry Barber definitely shook up areas when he came to town!


FLAG
By Hank Caylor
Administrator
From Golden, CO
Jan 9, 2008
Lone goat..

Leo Holding and Dean Potter did the 2nd on the Southern Belle and it took more than 2 tries. Cool topic tho, I'd like to know myself.


FLAG
By Buff Johnson
Jan 10, 2008
smiley face

Arctic Rage has to the most intense route.


FLAG
By Jason Himick
From Boulder, CO
Jan 10, 2008
Future Goal

Mark Nelson wrote:
Arctic Rage has to the most intense route.


Indulge us.


FLAG
By Buff Johnson
Jan 10, 2008
smiley face

Arctic Rage A2 WI6+ R VI (4,500�) 3/31-4/3/04, Ben Gilmore & Kevin Mahoney

It's articled in Alpinist 8 by Mahoney & also cataloged in the Journal -- taking a natural line up through the Moose's Tooth with a death defying OW section. The presentation at the AAC mtg a few years back was bone-chilling considering the technical grade, commitment, & weather conditions. (and really, I felt the climbing authors took us on a description of an X rated route).

It really sticks out in my mind as one of the most intense ascents.


FLAG
By Skyeler Congdon
From his van
Nov 6, 2010
mongolia

Mic Fairchild wrote:
Gotta think that on-sight would be the ultimate consideration. But, take the next step and ask "what are the difficult routes on-sight free soloed"? That's rarified air. Add in first ascent as well, and you're into a philosophical stratosphere: Robbins-style idealism and Erickson-like execution. It was always my hope to somehow grasp a little of that experience, high above the clouds. Despite lagging tendons, my temperament has allowed me to try.


Very rewarding indeed. It would be interesting to hijack this thread and compile a list of routes which the FA was on-sight free-solo'd. Could make for a interesting tick list. Here are my little contributions:

www.mountainproject.com/v/colorado/grand_junction/unaweep_ca>>>

www.mountainproject.com/v/colorado/grand_junction/unaweep_ca>>>

I'm sure there are many more, and probably much harder...


FLAG
By slim
Administrator
Nov 8, 2010
tomato, tomotto, kill mike amato.

didn't steve haston on-site 'zebre' recently (14a, although he kind of scoffed at the grade). also, for some reason i had thought that steve mcclure had onsited in the hard 13 or possibly low 14 range on gear. i could be completely full of it though.


FLAG
By caughtinside
From Oakland CA
Nov 10, 2010

slim wrote:
didn't steve haston on-site 'zebre' recently (14a, although he kind of scoffed at the grade). also, for some reason i had thought that steve mcclure had onsited in the hard 13 or possibly low 14 range on gear. i could be completely full of it though.


Was it le zebre? I thought he onsighted Greenspit and then said it wasn't 14.


FLAG
By SeanKuus
From Steamboat Springs
Nov 10, 2010
PS

Skyeler Congdon wrote:
It would be interesting to hijack this thread and compile a list of routes which the FA was on-sight free-solo'd.



Blind Faith


FLAG
By slim
Administrator
Nov 10, 2010
tomato, tomotto, kill mike amato.

you could be right caughtinside, that kind of sounds familiar. is/was greenspit 14a? i had thought it was some sort of 14a he got on the first go, i think his wife crushed it quick too.


FLAG
By slim
Administrator
Nov 10, 2010
tomato, tomotto, kill mike amato.

blind faith was a sort of impressive OS free solo, but jim did others that were way more impressive. one that comes to mind is suberb. i think he did the FFA free solo(?). again though, if i am full of $hit hopefully somebody will help me out. he went through a 'phase' wher he was really into the OSFS thing, but then he pitched on one and had to crawl a ways out on busted legs. ouch!


FLAG
By Adam Kimmerly
Nov 10, 2010

Skyeler Congdon wrote:
Very rewarding indeed. It would be interesting to hijack this thread and compile a list of routes which the FA was on-sight free-solo'd.


Here's another...
mountainproject.com/v/california/san_diego_county/corte_made>>>


FLAG
By camhead
From Vandalia, Appalachia
Nov 10, 2010
You stay away from mah pig!

caughtinside wrote:
Was it le zebre? I thought he onsighted Greenspit and then said it wasn't 14.


I'm pretty sure that he got Greenspit first go, but on pre-hung gear. Just shows how contrived the whole "trad" thing is.


FLAG
By Brendan N. (grayhghost)
From Salt Lake City, Utah
Nov 10, 2010

5.13+

mountainproject.com/v/utah/moab_area/indian_creek/106127696



then there is the superhuman

pizem.blogspot.com/2010/03/north-wash.html


FLAG
By tenesmus
Nov 10, 2010

Wow, that's cool about Trail of Tiers. I haven't seen it, but hearing Carson talk about what it took to get that one is one for the ages. Kind of like what Mike said at the very beginning of the thread.

Honold is altogether in another league.


FLAG
By habla
Jan 10, 2011
baldy

not a on-sight. but the cobra crack is a amazing looking climb.


FLAG
By bearded sam
Sep 16, 2011

page 10: www.coppworks.com/articles/Cirquetry_aaj.pdf

onsight, ground up, in a day. RIP Copp.


FLAG


Follow replies to this topic? Notify me at the top of web site.
1

Email me.
Page 1 of 2.  1  2   Next>   Last>>