Higher Stannard 5.9-
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| Type: | Trad, 3 pitches, 200 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.9- [details] |
| FA: | Jim McCarthy, John Stannard, 1967 |
| Submitted By: | Guy H. on Feb 21, 2006 |
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Shirley at the thin start
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Area closures MORE INFO >>>
2013 Peregrine Closure: Bloody Bush (5.7) to Overhanging Layback (5.7). This includes Arch, Ribs, Strictly, Shockley's and the Mac Wall. Best wishes to the nestlings.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description This route is located about 10-15' to the right of Something Interesting. It is rated 5.9-, but is a very exciting lead for 5.9. Everything is there, and the pro shows up when you need it.
P1: There are a couple of different starts. The face start to the right of the tree is probably the best: bust a few reachy thin moves on obvious crimps before you get your first gear in. Alternatively, start to the left of the tree just left of a left-leaning 2" overhanging ramp, and aim rightwards.
Make thin moves towards a thin seam about 40' up, with tough balancy moves. After the seam, traverse to the right to a right-facing dihedral. Climb this through a double overhang (tiny cam), to bolt anchors. 5.9-, 80'.
P2: Traverse right around the corner, and head up to the GT ledge. 5.5, 80'. Follow easier climbing to the top, then rap the bolted line over Three Pines.
Protection Standard Rack, extra small cams.
The second pitch is wonderfully steep and exposed....
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| Comments on Higher Stannard |
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By gilp
Mar 17, 2007
rating: 5.9-
| Great route with some of the most diverse climbing the cliff offers. Great face climbing, some run-out sections, fun moves, awesome roof, and high quality. |
By JSH
Administrator
Sep 3, 2007
| The first few moves that most folks use for Higher Stannard are just out my reach (5'7", -2 ape index). At some point I'll try the left hand start to see how that goes. |
By - - -
May 11, 2009
| Routefinding is a challenge on this one. |
By SethG
Jul 1, 2011
| I did the left-hand start. It has good pro. The move right off the ground is bouldery, just smear your feet. This is an outstanding pitch from start to finish, though it does wander a bit; just keep looking left and right (and up!). I would disagree that it has runouts. I thought the gear was great. The crux face moves at the early thin crack up the face come just after a perfect horizontal, but the moves are above the gear. There is great pro at each of the two roofs at the end. |
By Benjaminadk
From: Lake George, NY
Nov 9, 2012
| big fan of this route. keeps u thinking the whole way. some thin face moves and traversing to a nice roof section. thought the crux moves were low at the bottom of the thin crack. |
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