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This route is located about 10-15' to the right of Something Interesting. It is rated 5.9-, but is a very exciting lead for 5.9. Everything is there, and the pro shows up when you need it.
P1: There are a couple of different starts. The face start to the right of the tree is probably the best: bust a few reachy thin moves on obvious crimps before you get your first gear in. Alternatively, start to the left of the tree just left of a left-leaning 2" overhanging ramp, and aim rightwards.
Make thin moves towards a thin seam about 40' up, with tough balancy moves. After the seam, traverse to the right to a right-facing dihedral. Climb this through a double overhang (tiny cam), to bolt anchors. 5.9-, 80'.
P2: Traverse right around the corner, and head up to the GT ledge. 5.5, 80'. Follow easier climbing to the top, then rap the bolted line over Three Pines.
Standard Rack, extra small cams.
The second pitch is wonderfully steep and exposed....
|Comments on Higher Stannard
Mar 17, 2007
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI HVS 4c
Great route with some of the most diverse climbing the cliff offers. Great face climbing, some run-out sections, fun moves, awesome roof, and high quality.
Sep 3, 2007
The first few moves that most folks use for Higher Stannard are just out my reach (5'7", -2 ape index). At some point I'll try the left hand start to see how that goes.
|By - - -|
May 11, 2009
Routefinding is a challenge on this one.
Jul 1, 2011
I did the left-hand start. It has good pro. The move right off the ground is bouldery, just smear your feet. This is an outstanding pitch from start to finish, though it does wander a bit; just keep looking left and right (and up!). I would disagree that it has runouts. I thought the gear was great. The crux face moves at the early thin crack up the face come just after a perfect horizontal, but the moves are above the gear. There is great pro at each of the two roofs at the end.
From: Lake George, NY
Nov 9, 2012
big fan of this route. keeps u thinking the whole way. some thin face moves and traversing to a nice roof section. thought the crux moves were low at the bottom of the thin crack.
|By Andy Weinmann|
From: Alexandria, VA
Nov 4, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a
Fun, steep face climb that wanders a bit and with PG/PG13 Pro (not R, but not G either) but excellent moves. Only real difficult pro spot was maybe 20+ ft up, above gear and at a small pin scar...I got a #00 C3 (it was decent). Perhaps I could've gotten a Peenut to go; unfortunately I left them on the ground...doh!