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Higher Calling 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 3 pitches, 300'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Mark Tarrant, Richard Wright
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 2,676
Submitted By: Mark Tarrant on Jun 13, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
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Scott nearing the end of the hard stuff on the sec...

Description 

Higher Calling is a 300', 3 pitch sport route that starts in an arching, left-facing dihedral about 60' up and left of EOA. At present, it is the fourth bolted route you'll encounter coming up the boulderfield. A relatively easy first pitch is followed by two fairly long, outlandish pitches on great stone. It's possible to rap/retreat from each pitch. I think the endurance demands take the overall onsight rating up a notch.

Pitch 1: 5.10b, 70', 8 bolts + anchor. Stem into the big dihedral, arcing up and left to an interesting crux at 50'. Belay on a small ledge.

Pitch 2: 5.11d, 120', 15 bolts + anchor. Hang on for a wild, unrelenting ride up the overhanging dihedral for 60' (.11c/d--technical crux at the second bolt), and then work through the second crux on an exposed and intimidating chocolate-colored bulge (.11c/d) at 70'. More steep rock leads to a lowering anchor at 95' (NOT the belay). Climb 20' past this anchor to a comfy, flat ledge and belay.

Pitch 3: 5.11c, 95', 13 bolts + anchor. Another steep, exposed and exciting face finishes at a good ledge about 30' below the actual top of the cliff. After bolt 2, balance right around the arete, staying low at first, and then up to bolts 3 and 4 (first crux). There are two technical cruxes (.11a/b), but the real crux is handling the relentless 5.10. Think you can't fall off 5.10? Don't be surprised if you melt off some pretty good holds near the end of the pitch. It's best to belay below the summit in order to see your partner and avoid some rubble at the top.

Pitch 4: Jaunt 25' to the top (5.4, 1 bolt) and find the 2-bolt anchor for EOA about 10' back.

Descent: Walk down the ramp to the north.

With plenty of very good alpine rock, airy positions and fierce continuity, Higher Calling is on a par with 4-star routes just about anywhere.


Protection 

16 draws + anchors, 60m rope.



Photos of Higher Calling Slideshow Add Photo
Scott Tarrant stemming up the first pitch.
Scott Tarrant stemming up the first pitch.
Mark leveraging past the first crux of P2 on Higher Calling, Ra, Empire.
Mark leveraging past the first crux of P2 on Highe...
Mark on P1 of Higher Calling, Ra, Empire.
Mark on P1 of Higher Calling, Ra, Empire.
Mark slipping into the ever steepening third pitch of Higher Calling, Ra, Empire.
Mark slipping into the ever steepening third pitch...
Scott leading pitch two.  This long pitch consists of many awkward and interesting moves between big holds producing an arm-numbing pump.
Scott leading pitch two. This long pitch consists...
Mark poised above the abyss.
Mark poised above the abyss.
Scott Tarrant and Jeff Giddings starting pitch two--just past the technical crux.
Scott Tarrant and Jeff Giddings starting pitch two...
Comments on Higher Calling Add Comment
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By Richard M. Wright
From: Lakewood, CO
Jun 16, 2004
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

Second opinion. Higher Calling is a terrific route and well worth the three stars given. While bolting the line and running it on jugs Mark indicated that he imagined the line going in a full number grade harder than it turned out to be. This seems to be commonplace on Ra. Even P1 took a couple of runs before it felt like 10a and not 10c or 10d. It's not entirely clear why this arises here. I suspect that there is lot more to work with than is apparent when you first jump on these routes. Exposure is a factor. Altitude, even for a Colorado vetran, may be a factor. The relentless steepness is a factor - the pitches just wear you down. HC turned out to be a brilliant route, taking a commanding line through one of the most exposed places on Ra. The second and third belays are airy, but spacious. The second crux on P2 may be 11d, although Mark gave it 11c - it seemed tricky. There is no doubt that the real crux on P3 is just surviving the relentless, accumulating pump. Kudos to Mark for putting up a terrific line on great stone and hanging on for the whole ride.

By scott e. tarrant
From: Fort Collins
May 21, 2007

Very difficult to on-sight. It would take a very fit and very solid 5.12 climber to on-sight this 5.11 route. No move may be harder than 5.11c/d, but as an on-sight grade I would push it to 5.12a/b.... As stated in the description, holding on (I was able to "on-sight" the crux but fell on ladder rungs and holds big enough to 3 point turn a full-size truck!) is truly the crux. I KNOW I can fall off of 5.10! Amazing position & exposure! Great climb!

By David A. Turner
Jul 14, 2007
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a

Best multi-pitch sport route within 1 hour of Boulder (not counting the approach)? Easily. A better multi-pitch sport route in Colorado? Hard to imagine.

By Dougald MacDonald
Aug 25, 2008

The second crux on the second pitch is harder than the supposed 11c/d first crux, and the following 20 feet are very pumpy. I saw three people (including me) climb through the first crux no problem and hang on the second. I also think the third pitch is just about as hard as the second. No moves are as difficult, but, as has been said, the pump is relentless. There's still some dangerous loose rock on the third pitch, including one chalked block you really want to use but shouldn't. Best to belay (and stand around at the base) with a helmet. All this said, this is a terrific must-do route.

By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Aug 3, 2009
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Wow. Cool. Indeed one of the finer sport climbs in The Front Range, and as I understand it, I didn't even do the best pitch (3rd)!
The first pitch is fun, the second pitch is unbelievable. Though the moves might only be 5.11 to 5.11+, there are a lot of them. I hope you ate your Wheaties.... I see the potential for a 5.11 climber on-sighting this as more or less 0.

A note on the second pitch: P2 faces DIRECTLY into the sun as the sun comes over the cliff-line and is at a literally blinding angle- you can't even see the bolts, let alone the holds. We started this one just before the sun came over the top and ended up climbing the upper half of the crux pitch "by Braille." I got punted at the top, not long before the anchors and got punted on a 5.10 section, melting off some pretty good moves.

The 3rd pitch has the second bolt about 3' above a 3' ledge. The 3rd bolt is a hard move above that if you go directly up. If you fell before bolt #3, you WOULD this large, jagged ledge. The holds are polished slipping feet, a slightly obtuse pinch, and a big quartzy sloper. You could easily blow it, and hit the ledge before any rope tension was at all. Breaking an ankle, knee, or leg up there would be a really tough situation, and I think that is the eventual result of that clip for someone, especially if shorter climbers attempt it. My 5.11 leading parner and I, who climbs about a number grade harder, both decided it was beyond our level of acceptable risk.
I suggest that the FA party give permission to add a higer bolt between #2 and #3 on pitch 3 to other climbers, or perhaps consider doing so themselves. There is solid rock , a good stance and an opportunity for a higer clip right before the 'ledge fall' move.
To be clear- I am making a suggestion- meanwhile, I'm satisfied with the conclusion that the route is simply more man that me. However, I make the suggestion knowing Richard and Mark would never create an intentional situation like that.

EDIT: I talked to Richard last night, and Mark wrote me this AM regarding this and some other matters. After some minor discussion it's better understood.
The 3rd pitch traverses RIGHT around an arete after the #2 bolt and does not go directly upward, as I & my partner had both had attempted. This would make it much easier and also displace a fall away from the ledge. However, cogniscent of the fact that not everyone will get this Micro-beta, and there may be more tunnel-visioned fools like me out there who are more stubborn and do it that way, Mark agreed that it may be a good idea and said he'd check it out and perhaps add a bolt next time he is up there.
Meanwhile... go right after P2 on P3!

By slim
Administrator
Aug 3, 2009
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

The second pitch on this reminded me of junior prom - a lot of groping and not getting anywhere. Cryptic to say the least. Managed to make it to the very last crux, but alas, my ability to grope and not get anywhere resulted in premature ejection. I could see it going at 11c or so after getting it dialed a bit, but agree with others that onsighting it would be pretty proud.

By Monty
From: Golden, CO
Aug 1, 2011
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

Great route! 3 awesome, sustained pitches. The 3rd pitch has a wicked pump to it that made it feel just as hard as the 2nd "crux pitch".... Maybe I was just still pumped.

By Bob Rotert
Aug 7, 2011
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a

Awesome route, Mark and Richard!! Thanks for all your hard work in developing this area. This is one of my favorite routes on the crag!! Superb, with great, continous climbing on every pitch. Doesn't get much better than this one up at Ra and one of the best sport routes in the front range.

IMHO the last pitch is the crux pitch. The sustained nature makes it harder than the second pitch to me. Make sure you depump from the second pitch before starting up this one. Holds may be good, except at the 3rd- 4th bolt. Stay online with the bolts up top, put this all together, clean, without out any hangs/assisted rests, and its UNRELENTING!!

I like this one so much I've done it a few times now. I still can't find the 11b/c last pitch for this one!!?? \;o)

By furrymurry
From: Boulder, CO
May 25, 2012

Quite fun. Although certainly not "the best multipitch sport route within 1 hour of Boulder", it is still a worthy outing. Surprisingly pumpy pitches due to the style: lots of flat, difficult to find holds.

By GabeO
From: Denver, CO
Jul 30, 2012

Both my partner and I found the third pitch substantially harder than the second. Yes, pitch two has a fair bit of 5.11 climbing but only one really tricky-to-read 5.11+ move. Pitch 3 on the other hand is nearly all 5.11 if you read every move just right, otherwise, off you go. And in order to keep it at the grade you have to wander as much as five or six feet off the bolt line in a number of places. Very unintuitive (not to mention spooky). With that said, this is a good climb.