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Highball vs. Freesolo
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By Russ Walling
From www.FishProducts.com
Feb 12, 2009
Russ

I was trying bouldering this out..... and then it turned into a free solo...... and eventually it became a 4 bolt route. No pad of course. Maybe took 20 of those falls before I gave up and bolted it. Glad I did. Crux is pulling onto the summit slabs out at the right edge of the photo.


Mari Gingery photo


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By Andrew Ryder
From Flagstaff, AZ
Feb 12, 2009
Stems, Seeds

Semantics, semantics, semantics. Call it a highball boulder problem or a free solo, in that grey area it doesn't really matter. The landing and fall height are deceptive anyway. Sometimes people just get up and dust it off after a 30-plus-footer, and yet I know a gal who destroyed her leg falling 6 feet in the gym.


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By Fat Dad
From Los Angeles, CA
Feb 12, 2009

Russ,

Is that the Saturn Boulder?


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By Russ Walling
From www.FishProducts.com
Feb 12, 2009
Russ

Fat Dad wrote:
Russ, Is that the Saturn Boulder?


yes sir....


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By Paul Hunnicutt
From Boulder, CO
Feb 12, 2009
Half Dome

please see the "torn ACL while bouldering" thread...


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By Adam Winters
Administrator
From the Shire
Feb 12, 2009
Red-tail Hawk, Buttermilks

35 ft. v1, or a short unprotected 5.10?? Notice the folded pad off to the side- they kinda start losing their value at this point.

Evan with some air under his feet on the west face of the Merlin Block, Warlock Boulders
Evan with some air under his feet on the west face of the Merlin Block, Warlock Boulders


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By Russ Walling
From www.FishProducts.com
Feb 12, 2009
Russ

Low crux = bouldering

High crux = freesoloing


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By Darren Mabe
From Flagstaff, AZ
Feb 12, 2009
wham bam hand jam. Wrapping up the final moves of Twist of Fate, Oak Creek Canyon. <br /> <br />photo: Blake McCord

Adam Winters wrote:
unprotected 5.10??

not unless you put 6 bolts in it.


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By Adam Winters
Administrator
From the Shire
Feb 12, 2009
Red-tail Hawk, Buttermilks

WiledHorse wrote:
not unless you put 6 bolts in it.


ha, yes of course. but i should at least run it out a little. 4 will probably do it...


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By Fat Dad
From Los Angeles, CA
Feb 12, 2009

A follow up on the blown knee issue. A while back an MD wrote a letter into Climbing Mag about the risk of highballing, claiming that once you're 15 feet off the ground you're starting to look at the risk of spinal injury. Obviously doesn't happen very often but something to consider.


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By Chase Gee
From Wyoming/ Logan Utah
Feb 12, 2009
My Top Secret Yet to be named crag.

saturn boulder.....good god that thing is beautiful.


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By Buff Johnson
Feb 12, 2009
smiley face

If it'll go with a kilt, it's free;
the standard fruit o the looms, I'd say highball


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By Andy Librande
From Denver, CO
Feb 12, 2009
Me in the Buddha Cave at crumblewood a while ago.

Kyle Joe Turner wrote:
Is this in question to Kevin Jorgeson's FA of Ambrosia? 20ft V12 start to a 13a 25ft finish, put it all together and he called a 14a. In this case, given the rating, I'd say free solo. A boulder rating doesn't do it justice, even if it is V12.


50 ft seems a bit crazy for a standard boulder problem. but you be the judge:



More about the photo here from the photog Tim Kemple: kemplemedia.com/blog/2009/02/11/new-cover/#more-277


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By Joseph Stover
From Batesville, AR
Feb 12, 2009

Maybe freesoloing should be used to define all unrehearsed and unprotected climbing regardless of length/height. And Highball bouldering would denote ascents with the use of pads, spotters and/or rehearsing(viewing the rehearsing is a kind of protection). The distinction between highball and lowball is a bit tougher maybe.

What exactly is a boulder? Is there some geological specification such as how it was formed or size/mass? That might help too.


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By Brad "Stonyman" Killough
Administrator
From Alabama
Feb 12, 2009
Knife Crack

Russ Walling wrote:
I was trying bouldering this out..... and then it turned into a free solo...... and eventually it became a 4 bolt route. No pad of course. Maybe took 20 of those falls before I gave up and bolted it. Glad I did. Crux is pulling onto the summit slabs out at the right edge of the photo. Mari Gingery photo

Nice Picture Russ. Great looking climb...!


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