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Highball vs. Freesolo
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Feb 12, 2009
Russ
I was trying bouldering this out..... and then it turned into a free solo...... and eventually it became a 4 bolt route. No pad of course. Maybe took 20 of those falls before I gave up and bolted it. Glad I did. Crux is pulling onto the summit slabs out at the right edge of the photo.


Mari Gingery photo
Russ Walling
From www.FishProducts.com
Joined Oct 5, 2004
3,275 points
Feb 12, 2009
Stems, Seeds
Semantics, semantics, semantics. Call it a highball boulder problem or a free solo, in that grey area it doesn't really matter. The landing and fall height are deceptive anyway. Sometimes people just get up and dust it off after a 30-plus-footer, and yet I know a gal who destroyed her leg falling 6 feet in the gym. Andrew Ryder
From Flagstaff, AZ
Joined Jun 18, 2006
3,703 points
Feb 12, 2009
Russ,

Is that the Saturn Boulder?
Fat Dad
From Los Angeles, CA
Joined Nov 9, 2007
137 points
Feb 12, 2009
Russ
Fat Dad wrote:
Russ, Is that the Saturn Boulder?


yes sir....
Russ Walling
From www.FishProducts.com
Joined Oct 5, 2004
3,275 points
Feb 12, 2009
Half Dome
please see the "torn ACL while bouldering" thread... Paul Hunnicutt
From Boulder, CO
Joined Sep 23, 2006
352 points
Administrator
Feb 12, 2009
Red-tail Hawk, Buttermilks
35 ft. v1, or a short unprotected 5.10?? Notice the folded pad off to the side- they kinda start losing their value at this point.

Evan with a little bit of air under his feet on th...
Evan with a little bit of air under his feet on the west face of the Merlin Block (5.10ish), Warlock Boulders
AWinters
From NH
Joined Apr 6, 2007
5,407 points
Feb 12, 2009
Russ
Low crux = bouldering

High crux = freesoloing
Russ Walling
From www.FishProducts.com
Joined Oct 5, 2004
3,275 points
Feb 12, 2009
wham bam hand jam. Wrapping up the final moves of ...
Adam Winters wrote:
unprotected 5.10??

not unless you put 6 bolts in it.
Darren Mabe
From Flagstaff, AZ
Joined Dec 12, 2002
3,729 points
Administrator
Feb 12, 2009
Red-tail Hawk, Buttermilks
WiledHorse wrote:
not unless you put 6 bolts in it.


ha, yes of course. but i should at least run it out a little. 4 will probably do it...
AWinters
From NH
Joined Apr 6, 2007
5,407 points
Feb 12, 2009
A follow up on the blown knee issue. A while back an MD wrote a letter into Climbing Mag about the risk of highballing, claiming that once you're 15 feet off the ground you're starting to look at the risk of spinal injury. Obviously doesn't happen very often but something to consider. Fat Dad
From Los Angeles, CA
Joined Nov 9, 2007
137 points
Feb 12, 2009
My Top Secret Yet to be named crag.
saturn boulder.....good god that thing is beautiful. Chase Gee
From Wyoming/ Logan Utah
Joined Jan 11, 2009
108 points
Feb 12, 2009
If it'll go with a kilt, it's free;
the standard fruit o the looms, I'd say highball
Buff Johnson
Joined Dec 19, 2005
1,499 points
Feb 12, 2009
Me in the Buddha Cave at crumblewood a while ago.
Kyle Joe Turner wrote:
Is this in question to Kevin Jorgeson's FA of Ambrosia? 20ft V12 start to a 13a 25ft finish, put it all together and he called a 14a. In this case, given the rating, I'd say free solo. A boulder rating doesn't do it justice, even if it is V12.


50 ft seems a bit crazy for a standard boulder problem. but you be the judge:



More about the photo here from the photog Tim Kemple: kemplemedia.com/blog/2009/02/1...
Andy Librande
From Denver, CO
Joined Nov 7, 2005
1,949 points
Feb 12, 2009
Maybe freesoloing should be used to define all unrehearsed and unprotected climbing regardless of length/height. And Highball bouldering would denote ascents with the use of pads, spotters and/or rehearsing(viewing the rehearsing is a kind of protection). The distinction between highball and lowball is a bit tougher maybe.

What exactly is a boulder? Is there some geological specification such as how it was formed or size/mass? That might help too.
Joseph Stover
From Batesville, AR
Joined Dec 8, 2005
881 points
Administrator
Feb 12, 2009
Starting the second section of Live to climb anoth...
Russ Walling wrote:
I was trying bouldering this out..... and then it turned into a free solo...... and eventually it became a 4 bolt route. No pad of course. Maybe took 20 of those falls before I gave up and bolted it. Glad I did. Crux is pulling onto the summit slabs out at the right edge of the photo. Mari Gingery photo

Nice Picture Russ. Great looking climb...!
Brad "Stonyman" Killough
From Alabama
Joined Jan 18, 2008
5,967 points


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