Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Highball vs. Freesolo
View Latest Posts in This Forum or All Forums
   Page 1 of 2.  1  2   Next>   Last>>
Follow replies to this topic? Notify me at the top of web site.
1

Email me.
 
 
By matthewWallace
From plymouth, nh
Feb 11, 2009
Cool movement on this line

Today's bouldering world seems to be pushing a new limit where bouldering is getting to a foggy place that is drifting from highballs into mini freesolos. Where do we draw the line, is a 45 foot boulder problem really a boulder problem or a freesolo? what do you think?


FLAG
By Chase Gee
From Wyoming/ Logan Utah
Feb 11, 2009
My Top Secret Yet to be named crag.

are they using pads? haha


FLAG
By Russ Walling
From www.FishProducts.com
Feb 11, 2009
Russ

Pads are the line.

That and the 'livable fall" factor. If you fall and live, it is probably bouldering. If you fall and die, you were freesoloing. Both of those assume no pads.


FLAG
By Chase Gee
From Wyoming/ Logan Utah
Feb 11, 2009
My Top Secret Yet to be named crag.

although for the most part I can agree with that but a livable fall can be fairly subjective.


FLAG
By Christopher Jones
From Denver, Colorado
Feb 11, 2009
Climbing So Wild at Thunder Ridge photo by Kevin McLaughlin.

I stopped in J Tree once for a short overnight stay with my wife and told her I was going bouldering and then I ended up soloing a bunch of easy routes. So my wife yells up to me saying I thought you were going bouldering I yelled back saying I am, it's just a really big boulder. She wasn't too happy, looking back I can understand since she was pregnant with our first.

I think it all depends on what you are comfortable with. I prefer the boulder problems that get easier the higher you go up.


FLAG
By Mulligan
Feb 11, 2009
Close to the top of After Six.

I believe that if you are using a pad and spotters it is still highball bouldering. Just put an "X" after the rating (ie v11X) and you're set.


FLAG
By Russ Walling
From www.FishProducts.com
Feb 11, 2009
Russ

Chase Gee wrote:
although for the most part I can agree with that but a livable fall can be fairly subjective.



True dat.... that James kid was freesoloing North Overhang in JT and popped a the top. Since he lived, his 100ft freesolo airball ripper downrated his circus trick to "bouldering".

The system is not perfect.....


FLAG
By Mike Pharris
From Longmont, CO
Feb 11, 2009
Climbing above Black Lake

at some height doesn't the pad become kinda silly?


FLAG
 
By Richard Fernandez
From Flagstaff, AZ
Feb 11, 2009
Crack Test Dummies EPC

Call the USGS and ask them what the definition of a boulder is.


FLAG
By Chase Gee
From Wyoming/ Logan Utah
Feb 12, 2009
My Top Secret Yet to be named crag.

Russ Walling wrote:
True dat.... that James kid was freesoloing North Overhang in JT and popped a the top. Since he lived, his 100ft freesolo airball ripper downrated his circus trick to "bouldering". The system is not perfect.....
wow, thats pretty knarly.


FLAG
By Russ Walling
From www.FishProducts.com
Feb 12, 2009
Russ

Mike Pharris wrote:
at some height doesn't the pad become kinda silly?



Depends on how big the pad is. Have you seen the flop-spots the kids are carrying nowadays? MIght as well drag a port-a-pit along.


FLAG
By Kyle Joe Turner
From Santa Rosa, CA
Feb 12, 2009
The dike hike at the top of Corrugation Corner, Lovers Leap, South Lake Tahoe, CA

Is this in question to Kevin Jorgeson's FA of Ambrosia? 20ft V12 start to a 13a 25ft finish, put it all together and he called a 14a. In this case, given the rating, I'd say free solo. A boulder rating doesn't do it justice, even if it is V12.


FLAG
By matthewWallace
From plymouth, nh
Feb 12, 2009
Cool movement on this line

that was part of the reason i proposed this question also i was thinking about ethan pringle's send of the beautiful and the damned a few years back which pushed thirty five feet.

this is a real grey area i was just wondering what others thought

my personal opinion is if someone works the route on TR then it is questionable if it is a boulder problem, but that just my opinion


FLAG
By Ben Kiessel
Feb 12, 2009
2003

I've alway thought that for me the cut off was 30'. When I go over 30' I'm free soloing.


FLAG
By RyRy
Feb 12, 2009

If one works the bottom of a project with a pad and the top with a top rope then sends with a bunch of spotters and a hundred pads its bouldering.

If one works out a fifty five foot proj. and falls into a huge set-o-pads aka: poor mans foam pit its bouldering. If one repeats without pads and spotters its still bouldering because a fall is less likely to kill than say 100'. Its highball.

I have done problems with 1 pad that others used (no joke) 15 pads to try. Brings new meaning to padding the grade. With enough pads I have fallen 50' repeatedly and been totally fine.

If one works a 80' route overhanging a nasty boulder field with death falls all over on top rope then sends sans rope, spot and pad I'd call that free solo. If one did the same but instead down climbed as to never toprope it I'd say that's flash free solo because the last top moves have never been done by said climber even though he has seen them and visualized them.


FLAG
By Buff Johnson
Feb 12, 2009
smiley face

I miss Reardon!


I'm going with 2x body height, can be less w/ bad landing area.


FLAG
 
By Adam Stackhouse
Administrator
Feb 12, 2009
Courtright Reservoir, September 2013

Kyle Joe Turner wrote:
Is this in question to Kevin Jorgeson's FA of Ambrosia? 20ft V12 start to a 13a 25ft finish, put it all together and he called a 14a. In this case, given the rating, I'd say free solo. A boulder rating doesn't do it justice, even if it is V12.


Gosh, if I could even get off the ground on that route, I can't imagine caring about what it'd be called (or me for that matter...)


FLAG
By Hank Caylor
Administrator
From Golden, CO
Feb 12, 2009
Yoda

RyRy wrote:
With enough pads I have fallen 50' repeatedly and been totally fine



Repeated 5 story falls? Are you sure? Where?


FLAG
By YDPL8S
From Santa Monica, Ca.
Feb 12, 2009
Bouldering at right side of Sun Deck

Hank, those are 50 ft falls based on "man" inches, you know, 5 inches equals 9 inches :)


FLAG
By Buff Johnson
Feb 12, 2009
smiley face

you mean it doesn't?


FLAG
By Michael Dupont
Feb 12, 2009

Height has nothing to do with it. If random people are yelling for you to "go-big" you're bouldering, if they stop and it's quiet, you're free soloing.


FLAG
By Brad Brandewie
Feb 12, 2009
Maya's first trip to RMNP.

RyRy wrote:
With enough pads I have fallen 50' repeatedly and been totally fine.


I would love to hear this story... or see some pictures. That's burly!!!


FLAG
By RyRy
Feb 12, 2009

Three feet of open celled foam over four inches of closed. Helps to learn on smaller falls to avoid bad landings; eg: feet first. Some stunt friends do bigger but into boxes. In the EU they have done nets rigged to cliff's. I have a good Q? What's it called if you work something with a base rig. and mondo pad.


FLAG
By Geoffrey M
From St. Louis, MO
Feb 12, 2009

matthewWallace wrote:
my personal opinion is if someone works the route on TR then it is questionable if it is a boulder problem, but that just my opinion


I agree. I saw a recent story about someone working a problem on TR, then sending it and calling it a boulder problem. My thinking was that if you have to work it on TR first, it's a route, and if you climb it without a rope, it's a solo. Of course, I'm not a boulderer, and hi-balls scare the piss out of me.

Regardless, it's all semantics. If you tell me I'm gonna be 20' off the deck on terrain harder than 5.5, I want a rope. :-)


FLAG
 
By Hank Caylor
Administrator
From Golden, CO
Feb 12, 2009
Yoda

RyRy wrote:
Three feet of open celled foam over four inches of closed. I have a good Q? What's it called if you work something with a base rig. and mondo pad.


I haven't ever seen an over 3 foot thick pad at any bouldering areas. Do people make fun of it? and how do you fit this into the car? How many people does it take to get to the highball areas while carrying this boehemoth?

As for the 2nd question, if you're wearing a BASE rig while bouldering or climbing and with a mondo pad, you would be a moron.


FLAG
By RyRy
Feb 12, 2009

No boulders for me, all routes. And yes it takes a. Trailer to move. Thanks Hank that's what I figured


FLAG


Follow replies to this topic? Notify me at the top of web site.
1

Email me.
Page 1 of 2.  1  2   Next>   Last>>