Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Highball vs. Freesolo
View Latest Posts in This Forum or All Forums
Page 1 of 2.  1  2   Next>   Last>>
Follow replies to this topic? Notify me at the top of web site.
1

Email me.
 
Feb 11, 2009
Cool movement on this line
Today's bouldering world seems to be pushing a new limit where bouldering is getting to a foggy place that is drifting from highballs into mini freesolos. Where do we draw the line, is a 45 foot boulder problem really a boulder problem or a freesolo? what do you think? matthewWallace
From plymouth, nh
Joined Nov 20, 2008
8,109 points
Feb 11, 2009
My Top Secret Yet to be named crag.
are they using pads? haha Chase Gee
From Wyoming/ Logan Utah
Joined Jan 11, 2009
108 points
Feb 11, 2009
Russ
Pads are the line.

That and the 'livable fall" factor. If you fall and live, it is probably bouldering. If you fall and die, you were freesoloing. Both of those assume no pads.
Russ Walling
From www.FishProducts.com
Joined Oct 5, 2004
3,275 points
Feb 11, 2009
My Top Secret Yet to be named crag.
although for the most part I can agree with that but a livable fall can be fairly subjective. Chase Gee
From Wyoming/ Logan Utah
Joined Jan 11, 2009
108 points
Feb 11, 2009
Climbing So Wild at Thunder Ridge photo by Kevin M...
I stopped in J Tree once for a short overnight stay with my wife and told her I was going bouldering and then I ended up soloing a bunch of easy routes. So my wife yells up to me saying I thought you were going bouldering I yelled back saying I am, it's just a really big boulder. She wasn't too happy, looking back I can understand since she was pregnant with our first.

I think it all depends on what you are comfortable with. I prefer the boulder problems that get easier the higher you go up.
Christopher Jones
From Denver, Colorado
Joined Jan 31, 2005
967 points
Feb 11, 2009
Close to the top of After Six.
I believe that if you are using a pad and spotters it is still highball bouldering. Just put an "X" after the rating (ie v11X) and you're set. Mulligan
Joined Sep 27, 2008
242 points
Feb 11, 2009
Russ
Chase Gee wrote:
although for the most part I can agree with that but a livable fall can be fairly subjective.



True dat.... that James kid was freesoloing North Overhang in JT and popped a the top. Since he lived, his 100ft freesolo airball ripper downrated his circus trick to "bouldering".

The system is not perfect.....
Russ Walling
From www.FishProducts.com
Joined Oct 5, 2004
3,275 points
Feb 11, 2009
Climbing above Black Lake
at some height doesn't the pad become kinda silly? Mike Pharris
From Longmont, CO
Joined May 21, 2007
147 points
Feb 11, 2009
Crack Test Dummies EPC
Call the USGS and ask them what the definition of a boulder is. Richard Fernandez
From Flagstaff, AZ
Joined Nov 23, 2008
801 points
Feb 12, 2009
My Top Secret Yet to be named crag.
Russ Walling wrote:
True dat.... that James kid was freesoloing North Overhang in JT and popped a the top. Since he lived, his 100ft freesolo airball ripper downrated his circus trick to "bouldering". The system is not perfect.....
wow, thats pretty knarly.
Chase Gee
From Wyoming/ Logan Utah
Joined Jan 11, 2009
108 points
Feb 12, 2009
Russ
Mike Pharris wrote:
at some height doesn't the pad become kinda silly?



Depends on how big the pad is. Have you seen the flop-spots the kids are carrying nowadays? MIght as well drag a port-a-pit along.
Russ Walling
From www.FishProducts.com
Joined Oct 5, 2004
3,275 points
Feb 12, 2009
The dike hike at the top of Corrugation Corner, Lo...
Is this in question to Kevin Jorgeson's FA of Ambrosia? 20ft V12 start to a 13a 25ft finish, put it all together and he called a 14a. In this case, given the rating, I'd say free solo. A boulder rating doesn't do it justice, even if it is V12. Kyle Joe Turner
From Santa Rosa, CA
Joined Dec 7, 2008
7 points
Feb 12, 2009
Cool movement on this line
that was part of the reason i proposed this question also i was thinking about ethan pringle's send of the beautiful and the damned a few years back which pushed thirty five feet.

this is a real grey area i was just wondering what others thought

my personal opinion is if someone works the route on TR then it is questionable if it is a boulder problem, but that just my opinion
matthewWallace
From plymouth, nh
Joined Nov 20, 2008
8,109 points
Feb 12, 2009
2003
I've alway thought that for me the cut off was 30'. When I go over 30' I'm free soloing. Ben Kiessel
Joined Mar 9, 2004
2,877 points
Feb 12, 2009
If one works the bottom of a project with a pad and the top with a top rope then sends with a bunch of spotters and a hundred pads its bouldering.

If one works out a fifty five foot proj. and falls into a huge set-o-pads aka: poor mans foam pit its bouldering. If one repeats without pads and spotters its still bouldering because a fall is less likely to kill than say 100'. Its highball.

I have done problems with 1 pad that others used (no joke) 15 pads to try. Brings new meaning to padding the grade. With enough pads I have fallen 50' repeatedly and been totally fine.

If one works a 80' route overhanging a nasty boulder field with death falls all over on top rope then sends sans rope, spot and pad I'd call that free solo. If one did the same but instead down climbed as to never toprope it I'd say that's flash free solo because the last top moves have never been done by said climber even though he has seen them and visualized them.
RyRy
Joined Jan 25, 2009
7 points
Feb 12, 2009
I miss Reardon!


I'm going with 2x body height, can be less w/ bad landing area.
Buff Johnson
Joined Dec 19, 2005
1,494 points
Administrator
Feb 12, 2009
Courtright Reservoir, September 2013
Kyle Joe Turner wrote:
Is this in question to Kevin Jorgeson's FA of Ambrosia? 20ft V12 start to a 13a 25ft finish, put it all together and he called a 14a. In this case, given the rating, I'd say free solo. A boulder rating doesn't do it justice, even if it is V12.


Gosh, if I could even get off the ground on that route, I can't imagine caring about what it'd be called (or me for that matter...)
Adam Stackhouse
Joined Jan 3, 2001
13,463 points
Administrator
Feb 12, 2009
Pure bliss..
RyRy wrote:
With enough pads I have fallen 50' repeatedly and been totally fine



Repeated 5 story falls? Are you sure? Where?
Hank Caylor
From Golden, CO
Joined Dec 9, 2003
589 points
Feb 12, 2009
Bouldering at right side of Sun Deck
Hank, those are 50 ft falls based on "man" inches, you know, 5 inches equals 9 inches :) YDPL8S
From Santa Monica, Ca.
Joined Aug 7, 2003
932 points
Feb 12, 2009
you mean it doesn't? Buff Johnson
Joined Dec 19, 2005
1,494 points
Feb 12, 2009
Height has nothing to do with it. If random people are yelling for you to "go-big" you're bouldering, if they stop and it's quiet, you're free soloing. Michael Dupont
Joined Sep 5, 2008
40 points
Feb 12, 2009
Maya's first trip to RMNP.
RyRy wrote:
With enough pads I have fallen 50' repeatedly and been totally fine.


I would love to hear this story... or see some pictures. That's burly!!!
Brad Brandewie
Joined Apr 29, 2001
3,049 points
Feb 12, 2009
Three feet of open celled foam over four inches of closed. Helps to learn on smaller falls to avoid bad landings; eg: feet first. Some stunt friends do bigger but into boxes. In the EU they have done nets rigged to cliff's. I have a good Q? What's it called if you work something with a base rig. and mondo pad. RyRy
Joined Jan 25, 2009
7 points
Feb 12, 2009
matthewWallace wrote:
my personal opinion is if someone works the route on TR then it is questionable if it is a boulder problem, but that just my opinion


I agree. I saw a recent story about someone working a problem on TR, then sending it and calling it a boulder problem. My thinking was that if you have to work it on TR first, it's a route, and if you climb it without a rope, it's a solo. Of course, I'm not a boulderer, and hi-balls scare the piss out of me.

Regardless, it's all semantics. If you tell me I'm gonna be 20' off the deck on terrain harder than 5.5, I want a rope. :-)
Geoffrey M
From St. Louis, MO
Joined Jun 13, 2008
23 points
Administrator
Feb 12, 2009
Pure bliss..
RyRy wrote:
Three feet of open celled foam over four inches of closed. I have a good Q? What's it called if you work something with a base rig. and mondo pad.


I haven't ever seen an over 3 foot thick pad at any bouldering areas. Do people make fun of it? and how do you fit this into the car? How many people does it take to get to the highball areas while carrying this boehemoth?

As for the 2nd question, if you're wearing a BASE rig while bouldering or climbing and with a mondo pad, you would be a moron.
Hank Caylor
From Golden, CO
Joined Dec 9, 2003
589 points
Feb 12, 2009
No boulders for me, all routes. And yes it takes a. Trailer to move. Thanks Hank that's what I figured RyRy
Joined Jan 25, 2009
7 points


Follow replies to this topic? Notify me at the top of web site.
1

Email me.
Page 1 of 2.  1  2   Next>   Last>>
Beyond the Guidebook:
The Definitive Climbing Resource
Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run
Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps
Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes
Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!