This climb is the first crack on the left side of circus wall and is well left of the 'big top' roof. Although Swain decribes this as a finger crack, I would not go so far as to do so. In fact, the crux was best protected (nearest protected?) by a brass nut (#1 HB Anchor).
Find this crack and start up it. protect the bottom however possible including a small nut at the crux, then pull the climb's crux at the sloping flaring part of the crack before attaining an easier face. The pro is a little tricky. Romp up the moderate crack to a ledge with a bulge above. Protect the bulge and climb it (5.9-?) at an obvious crack. Top out and belay down and behind a rock a few meters back off of ~1"to 1.5" gear.
This route is perhaps 15 meters left of the big arching roof of circus wall and about 2 meters right of a lone bolt on the nearby route "Human Cannonball."
A standard light rack with some flat brass nuts ~ the size of a #2 BD stopper. Heads-up and possibly a bit dangerous.
Jul 25, 2012
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
| || holed up on high wire |
nice climb, i couldnt find it in swains red rocks select guide book when i was there almost 20 years ago, but it looked cool and very doable so i went for it. pro was good but a bit of fidgeting to get decent placements, and sewed it up pretty good because i was pretty sure i wouldnt want to have tested any single piece by itself......