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Circus Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Big Top T,S 
Careful of Clowns T 
Circus Boy T 
Crowd Pleaser T,S 
Elephant Man T,S 
High Wire T 
Human Cannonball T 
Lion Tamer T 
Main Attraction T,S 
Sideshow S 
Unknown 5.10a T 
Unknown 5.11C T 
Unknown 5.9+ T,S 

High Wire 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: unknown
Season: morning shade, afternoon
Page Views: 311
Submitted By: Tony B on Apr 7, 2006

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BETA PHOTO: High Wire is the crack going up the middle of the ...

Description 

This climb is the first crack on the left side of circus wall and is well left of the 'big top' roof. Although Swain decribes this as a finger crack, I would not go so far as to do so. In fact, the crux was best protected (nearest protected?) by a brass nut (#1 HB Anchor).
Find this crack and start up it. protect the bottom however possible including a small nut at the crux, then pull the climb's crux at the sloping flaring part of the crack before attaining an easier face. The pro is a little tricky. Romp up the moderate crack to a ledge with a bulge above. Protect the bulge and climb it (5.9-?) at an obvious crack. Top out and belay down and behind a rock a few meters back off of ~1"to 1.5" gear.

Location 

This route is perhaps 15 meters left of the big arching roof of circus wall and about 2 meters right of a lone bolt on the nearby route "Human Cannonball."

Protection 

A standard light rack with some flat brass nuts ~ the size of a #2 BD stopper. Heads-up and possibly a bit dangerous.


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By EFS
Jul 25, 2012
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13

holed up on high wire
holed up on high wire


nice climb, i couldnt find it in swains red rocks select guide book when i was there almost 20 years ago, but it looked cool and very doable so i went for it. pro was good but a bit of fidgeting to get decent placements, and sewed it up pretty good because i was pretty sure i wouldnt want to have tested any single piece by itself......