High Times 5.11
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| Type: | Trad |
| Consensus: | 5.10c/d [details] |
| FA: | Barry, Anderson '85 |
| Submitted By: | Brian Adzima on Apr 24, 2007 |
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BETA PHOTO: First pitch of High times
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Description The first pitch is short but stellar. Tight hands with a little bit of other sizes thrown in. Goes at 5.10c. The second pitch is real steep looking.
Location Undeneather the huge roof by the bridge. You can't miss the roof or the climb.
Protection Hands and smaller. Not sure what you need fo the top.
Near the top, where the hands get tight, High Time...
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By DaveB
Jun 27, 2007
| Orange TCU works well to protect the arching crack (crux) near anchors. Also, watch the feet here...polished and slick! |
By Kris Gorny
Administrator
Jul 10, 2007
rating: 5.11-
| This used to be rated 5.10c but I agree with the 5.11 rating. Rattly finger jams right where the crack starts to curve to the right. Orange and yellow TCU's work really well there. |
By Nate26
Mar 25, 2008
| 11 is if you go out the roof, 10b to the first anchors methinks. |
By Jeffrey Gagliano
From: Pennsburg, PA
Jun 27, 2010
| I just climbed P1 a few days ago. 10c is a stretch. Too secure to earn that grade. Compare it to Maranatha...a 'real' 10c. |
By Ryan Williams
Administrator
From: London (sort of)
Oct 25, 2010
| That's funny, Jeff... I felt the opposite. I thought "Maranatha" was pretty casual while "High Times" is one of the only 10's I've fallen on at the New. |
By Alan Howell
May 7, 2012
| Certainly 10+ and secure jams, but the feet through the crux are amazingly polished and slick. I couldn't give it 5.11 because the rest of the route is very solid, but I've seen many, many solid 11 climbers eat the face hard after their feet have blown at the crux. |
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