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The first pitch is short but stellar. Tight hands with a little bit of other sizes thrown in. Goes at 5.10c. The second pitch is real steep looking.
Undeneather the huge roof by the bridge. You can't miss the roof or the climb.
Hands and smaller. Not sure what you need fo the top.
Near the top, where the hands get tight, High Time...
Jun 27, 2007
Orange TCU works well to protect the arching crack (crux) near anchors. Also, watch the feet here...polished and slick!
|By Kris Gorny|
Jul 10, 2007
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ E3 5c
This used to be rated 5.10c but I agree with the 5.11 rating. Rattly finger jams right where the crack starts to curve to the right. Orange and yellow TCU's work really well there.
Mar 25, 2008
11 is if you go out the roof, 10b to the first anchors methinks.
|By Jeffrey Gagliano|
From: Pennsburg, PA
Jun 27, 2010
I just climbed P1 a few days ago. 10c is a stretch. Too secure to earn that grade. Compare it to Maranatha...a 'real' 10c.
|By Ryan Williams|
From: London (sort of)
Oct 25, 2010
That's funny, Jeff... I felt the opposite. I thought "Maranatha" was pretty casual while "High Times" is one of the only 10's I've fallen on at the New.
|By Alan Howell|
May 7, 2012
Certainly 10+ and secure jams, but the feet through the crux are amazingly polished and slick. I couldn't give it 5.11 because the rest of the route is very solid, but I've seen many, many solid 11 climbers eat the face hard after their feet have blown at the crux.