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Upper Broadway
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High Test 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 120'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a [details]
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Submitted By: Jesse Morehouse on Jun 28, 2008
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BETA PHOTO: Nearing the top of High Test

Description 

A maximum value experience not to be missed. You will find a bit of everything on this classic which has been described by at least one experienced regular as a "great 5.9 with a 5.11 crux". Your experience may vary but you will definitely consider an ascent worth your time.

Not recommended for a 5.9 leader.

Climb the thin crack (cruxy), traverse right then stem up the left-facing corner(strenuous) and finally face climb past the bulge to the top.


Location 

From the intersection of the East Face trail and Upper Broadway (base of Castor) turn right (North) and walk to the high point ~20 ft in front of you shaded by a pine tree. You will see a thin crack in the wall leading to a horizontal feature about 20' up.


Protection 

A little bit of everything. Did you remember your small gear?



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High Test, Topo
BETA PHOTO: High Test, Topo
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By Mike Anderson
From: Dayton, OH
Oct 19, 2010

Definitely nowhere near 5.11. Nice long pitch, but a bit mossy in spots.

By A Terray
From: San Diego, CA
Oct 16, 2011

Felt maybe 10a by modern standards. Definitely spot on compared to other grades at Seneca

By Andy Weinmann
From: Alexandria, VA
Nov 13, 2012
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a

Agree with Allison, probably 10a but spot on with other Seneca 9+ routes. Crux is def the finger crack down low. That said, the rest of it isn't much easier so 'sustained' is the name of the game. Protects fairly well; take what the route gives you and don't pass up gear placements, especially once past the first big ledge. There's still a fixed stopper in the right-facing corner/small roof as of 11NOV2012.