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High Tech Issues 

Hueco: V8 Font: 7B

   
Type:  Boulder, 20'
Consensus:  Hueco: V8 Font: 7B [details]
FA: Dave G & Luke P
Page Views: 1,226
Submitted By: BDalhaus on Apr 8, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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This photo shows the starting holds and general li...

Description 

Big moves on crimps lead into a gaston, a pocket, then a jug before topping out a ways off the deck. Like the sound of it? This problem is rarely touched and probably a whole grade harder than it's neighbor, Maxim. Sit start as for Maxim on the flake and the crimp, make a big move up and left to the next crimp, then figure out how to get into the giant gaston up and left (look for a hidden right hand crimp up high). Using the gaston and a sidepull to the right of it, work your feet and cross up to the pocket before grabbing the horn of Maxim. Top it out. Techy, tricky, and really good.

Location 

On the Hemlock Boulder (Big & Tall aka Hilltop), this problem starts the same as Maxim. Downclimb to the right of the problem.

Protection 

Pads & spotters


Comments on High Tech Issues Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Oct 26, 2014
By andyscott
From: Massachusetts
Dec 5, 2009
rating: V8 7B

I like this problem. I am suprised it doesn't get more attetention. And it isn't even in the book.
By Lanky
From: Portland, ME
Feb 13, 2010
rating: V8 7B

Really good. Maybe better than Maxim.
By chris deulen
From: Merriam, Kansas
Feb 15, 2010
rating: V7+ 7A+

I agree. Needs more traffic, and people w/ cojones.
By Lanky
From: Portland, ME
Feb 15, 2010
rating: V8 7B

Touche.
By Christian Prellwitz
From: Telluride, CO
Sep 10, 2012
rating: V9- 7C

Bryce (and others!)--

Where's this alleged 'hidden right hand crimp'? I match on the small sharp crimp (up and left from the start), and step up into the gaston with the left. Then right hand to the sidepull next to it. Then head to the pocket. Where's the crimp. I'd love to use it!

Any other beta hints/suggestions?
By BDalhaus
Administrator
From: Manchester, NH
Sep 12, 2012

Calling it a crimp is probably generous as it's about as thick as a credit card, however it does take considerable difficulty out of getting to the gaston because it gets you up level with it. It's hidden because it's so f***ing small, and I think I get three fingers on it. Pretty sure it's at about the same height as the gaston and three feet to the right, kind of near the bottom of the subtle scoop feature.

Glad someone is getting on this problem again...
By Christian Prellwitz
From: Telluride, CO
Sep 12, 2012
rating: V9- 7C

Thanks for the info, Bryce. I'll see if I can find it!

I wasn't having a hard time getting to the gaston and into the sidepull just right of it. I just couldn't figure out something good to do with my feet or how best to get situated to move off these holds to the pocket. Hopefully the crimp will help get me in a better position...

This line is beautiful and my favorite style of climbing. It's a tad sharp and tweaky, but climbs better (and less contrived) than Maxim, in my opinion.
By Lanky
From: Portland, ME
Sep 13, 2012
rating: V8 7B

I get the gaston & sidepul, do some hard footwork to get my right foot up to the sharp crimp you move to the gaston from, and fire for the pocket. Then I fall.
By BDalhaus
Administrator
From: Manchester, NH
Sep 13, 2012

The crimp won't help. I seem to remember something about having my right foot on the good crimp, backstepping a nub with my left foot, dropping my left hip into the wall, and hoping I didn't blow off and splatter myself across Gadgetry while crossing up to the pocket. That's where the cajones came in.
By Lanky
From: Portland, ME
Sep 13, 2012
rating: V8 7B

You cross? Damn. Hardcore. I'd recommend going right hand and then crossing to the good incut flake thing.
By Christian Prellwitz
From: Telluride, CO
Sep 13, 2012
rating: V9- 7C

Bryce and Julian--

Thanks for the info. Crossing through to the pocket is impressive! A thrutchy right hand to the pocket is what I've been trying, though I haven't given this problem much of a time investment yet.

I'm psyched to actually give it the attention and effort it deserves and see if I can piece it together. It's a great line.

Thanks for the beta help!

By BDalhaus
Administrator
From: Manchester, NH
Sep 23, 2013

Not sure when, but the sidepull for the crux section snapped...
By Lanky
From: Portland, ME
Sep 23, 2013
rating: V8 7B

So it's, what, solid V9 now?
By Christian Prellwitz
From: Telluride, CO
Sep 23, 2013
rating: V9- 7C

Well, I would have to be shown exactly where the hold you're talking about formerly was, but I feel like there hasn't been much of a sidepull or any hold up there, other than the big gaston, for the entire time I've been trying it (basically the last year or so). That might explain why this thing feels impossible...
By Brian Nugent
Sep 25, 2013

It's probably easy v9 now. I did it before and after the break and it feels quite a bit harder.
By Christian Prellwitz
From: Telluride, CO
Oct 26, 2014
rating: V9- 7C

A proud and amazing line that is much better than its weird and somewhat contrived neighbor (Maxim). I have to agree with Brian that this is likely in the low end v9ish range. Could be hard v8. Hard to say. Whatever the grade, four stars all the way.

In the interest of accuracy, it probably makes sense to update the description and grade since the climb has changed slightly from the description above and the grade is certainly harder than what it once was.

Happy to have ticked off this gem.