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Nick on High Strung
This climb takes the striking crack on the left side of the formation's east face and is a definite must do for the grade.
The start is a somewhat bouldery move into a thin crack that slowly widens throughout the length of the climb. Those not well-versed in wider cracks may desire something larger than suggested to protect the upper section. The climb ends on a nice ledge with anchors which give quick and easy access back to your packs.
Continuous and varied, this splitter is one that should be on your list of climbs to do at this grade - you won't be dissapointed.
pro to 4", bolted anchor/rap
BETA PHOTO: "High Strung".
Photo by Blitzo.
Chris Parks gets started up, following 'High Strun...
Chris Parks nears the top of the good crack on 'Hi...
thin crack crux at the bottom
dylan in the upper wide section of high strung wit...
Lacing it up on the start of High Strung, 1989
|By Tony B|
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jan 13, 2004
There are two cruxes, the bottom, and then again passing the line where the flake on the right "squeezes" the crack line. The wide moves up top are #3.5 to #4 camalot, but are probably only 5.7 and get progressively easier to the top, as the angle kicks back. Nice fun 5.9.
|By The Gray Tradster|
Jan 14, 2004
This one is located conviniently as a warm-up/down for the Astrodome routes. Crux thin move at the bottom.
|By Crotch Robbins|
Mar 22, 2005
This is a fantastic 5.9, maybe as good as Room To Shroom, but not as classic as Pope's or Touch And Go.
|By Anonymous Coward|
May 5, 2005
The rappel is 100 feet. A single 60 meter rope is needed. The ow at the top is only 5.7 or so.
|By Darshan Ahluwalia|
From: Petaluma, CA
Feb 26, 2007
a big red (number 5) friend protects the top well, while small nuts (or aliens) protect the start; bring lots hands and fist-sized cams for the middle section.
|By Will S|
From: Joshua Tree
Dec 1, 2009
We climbed a variation to the start of this route on 11/27. If you find yourself without small enough cams on the rack to pro the normal start (~ blue tcu), this works as a protecable alternative and is roughly the same difficulty.
From the regular start, move right/down into the chimney and then up to an obvious belay perch at the base of a left leaning fist crack flake with a splitter finger crack on the main face just to the left. Up these cracks 10' or so to the ledge, walk left across the big ledge and join the rest of High Strung. While you skip the crux of High Strung, the climbing isn't really any easier.
From: Portland, OR
Apr 4, 2011
I can't believe this doesn't get more stars...In my opinion this is one of the best 5.9's in the park (better than Touch and Go and Pope's Crack, if you ask me!). Tips, to fingers, to off-fingers, thin hands, hands, fists, off-width. Perfect smooth granite splitter!!
|By Simon Hatfield|
From: Los Angeles, CA
Apr 17, 2011
Climbed this the other day, and it is stellar. The crack is as splitter as O'Kelleys, and has everything from tips to fist-stacks. The approach (which is actually pretty mellow) and lack of "classic" status in the guidebooks keeps away the crowds.
The route receives afternoon shade and morning sun
WARNING: SPOILER GEAR BETA
Ideally, you'd bring 1 #4 and 1 #5 camalot. We did it with 2 4's, (setting one and walking the other), and the last place the upper four fit was about 12' before the topout . I wouldn't want to climb it with anything less. For the bottom crux section, I was happy to have a Green 0 C3.
|By Colin Schour|
From: Big Bear Lake, CA
Mar 12, 2012
|By Rob Selter|
From: running springs Ca
Apr 16, 2012
Dispite what Adam S. rates this route it's a 5.9 in Josh. But it sure is good!! Doubles of 4 C4s would be nice.
Nov 22, 2012
AWESOME climb! You can protect the bouldery start with some smaller wires (I think BD #5-7), and it is beautiful the whole rest of the way. Walked a #4 up the OW, would have been happier with a #5, but the OW is very easy (5.6-7). Beautiful line, go do it!
From: El Segundo, Ca
Apr 17, 2013
Definitely solid Josh 5.9. Tricky start as fingers are thin at start, but there is one good finger lock.....then reached to the next one in order to get feet on crack. Some Loose blocks that form excellent finger locks, but didn't place gear in them. Just bring a BD 5 you'll be glad....he'll I'd bring 2#4s also. Classic...