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Routes in Castle Rock - South Face
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Bellissimo S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Big Time S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Big Time Direct S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Carpe Spot S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Castle Keep S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Corrin's Crack T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Diamond in the Rough T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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High Road T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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High Times T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Imagine Wagons T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b PG13 |
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Little Big Time S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Little Time S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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No Pack Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Obsession S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b C0 |
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Oh My Gosh S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Pollo Negro S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Poster Chicken T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Tiny Time T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c X |
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Wedding Gift T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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| Type: | Trad, Sport, 300 ft (91 m), 3 pitches |
| FA: | Brad Shilling 2004 |
| Page Views: | 2,466 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | Guy H. on Jun 19, 2003 · Updates |
| Admins: | GRK, Mike Engle, Eric Bluemn |
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Access Issue: (1) BLM Managed Lands at Castle Rocks PERMANENTLY CLOSED TO CLIMBING!! Castle Rocks State Park and US Forest Sevice lands are OPEN TO CLIMBING. US Forest Service Lands closed to new route developement. (2) Highlining temporary ban in place at CIRO/CRSP
Details
(1) The BLM has amended the Cassia Resource Management Plan (RMP) to permanently close the 400 acres of land it manages in the Castle Rocks Interagency Recreation Area to staging, traditional rock climbing, sport climbing and bouldering, as well as overnight camping and development of new trails. Here is a link to a map that shows the BLM land in yellow. parksandrecreation.idaho.go…
The adjacent Castle Rocks State Park and the National Forest Service land to the north remains OPEN TO CLIMBING,
as does the nearby City of Rocks National Reserve.
(2) HIGHLINING IS PROHIBITED
By the authority of the park manager, Highlining at City of Rocks National Reserve and Castle Rocks State Park is temporarily prohibited as of August 28, 2019.
The park(s) is reviewing highlining activities. Here are Google Drive links to the closure and the updated Code of Regulations for CIRO. drive.google.com/open?id=1y… and drive.google.com/open?id=1Y…
Arrest and/or hefty fines are likely if caught rock climbing with ropes and gear in the BLM land.
Please respect this closure to ensure access to the open climbing at Castle Rocks is not threatened.
The "Final Supplementary Rules for the Castle Rocks Land Use Plan Amendment Area, Idaho" is located in the Federal Registry. This document gives the details on the closure but doesn't provide a map. You can check it out here: federalregister.gov/documen…
The adjacent Castle Rocks State Park and the National Forest Service land to the north remains OPEN TO CLIMBING,
as does the nearby City of Rocks National Reserve.
(2) HIGHLINING IS PROHIBITED
By the authority of the park manager, Highlining at City of Rocks National Reserve and Castle Rocks State Park is temporarily prohibited as of August 28, 2019.
The park(s) is reviewing highlining activities. Here are Google Drive links to the closure and the updated Code of Regulations for CIRO. drive.google.com/open?id=1y… and drive.google.com/open?id=1Y…
Arrest and/or hefty fines are likely if caught rock climbing with ropes and gear in the BLM land.
Please respect this closure to ensure access to the open climbing at Castle Rocks is not threatened.
The "Final Supplementary Rules for the Castle Rocks Land Use Plan Amendment Area, Idaho" is located in the Federal Registry. This document gives the details on the closure but doesn't provide a map. You can check it out here: federalregister.gov/documen…
Description
This route is located on the south slabs of the main formation. It is 2 routes to the right of Big Time, which is a 4-5 pitch bolted 5.7.
The first pitch is 5.8 except for the attention getting start at about 5.9. There is a little loose rock at the start. This pitch ends at a bolt anchor.
The second pitch has some quality slab climbing in the 5.9 range and is a real treat. I recommend combining the first two pitches in one long lead for the full experience.
The third pitch is the business pitch of the climb. Climb loose rock with trad gear to the first bolt. Fun patina face climbing leads you to another bolt anchor. (5.11a) The best descent may be with one rope, by rapping Big Time if it is not to crowded. It is a little scary getting to the first bolt due to the poor rock.
The first pitch is 5.8 except for the attention getting start at about 5.9. There is a little loose rock at the start. This pitch ends at a bolt anchor.
The second pitch has some quality slab climbing in the 5.9 range and is a real treat. I recommend combining the first two pitches in one long lead for the full experience.
The third pitch is the business pitch of the climb. Climb loose rock with trad gear to the first bolt. Fun patina face climbing leads you to another bolt anchor. (5.11a) The best descent may be with one rope, by rapping Big Time if it is not to crowded. It is a little scary getting to the first bolt due to the poor rock.
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